Spring Pruning Guide: When & What to Prune

This Month in the Garden

As the weather warms up and new growth begins to emerge, early spring is an ideal time to prune many shrubs and perennials. Pruning helps shape plants, encourage healthy growth, and improve flowering and foliage. However, timing is key—some plants benefit from spring pruning, while others should be left alone until later in the season. When pruning, use clean, sharp tools to make precise cuts and prevent disease spread. Prune on a dry day to minimize disease risk, and avoid pruning too late once new growth has started to emerge, especially for plants that bloom on new wood.

Here’s a guide to common trees, shrubs and perennials that should be pruned now in spring for their best performance. When in doubt, always research specific plant needs before pruning, since some plants require light shaping, while others benefit from hard rejuvenation pruning.

TREES & SHRUBS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia): Crape Myrtle bloom later in summer on the new wood of the season and can be pruned in late winter-early spring before new growth occurs. Avoid harsh cutting (often referred to as Crape Murder) and focus on removing only damaged or crossing branches or sucker growth emerging from the bottom of the plant. A light pruning is recommended to reduce overall height, improve shape and encourage stronger growth.

Crape Myrtle 'Sioux'

Abelia:  Trim back up to one-third of the plant, focusing on removing dead or weak branches. Abelias bloom on new wood, so pruning now will not reduce flowering and make a more compact plant. Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches and long shoots to encourage vigorous new growth and abundant blooms in summer.

Abelia 'Kaliedoscope'

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia 'davidii'): blooms on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Prune branches when you see green buds appearing and before new growth starts to approximately 12-24 inches from the ground. Buddleia highly benefits from a severe pruning.  "Hard" pruning promotes many new arching branches with larger flowers than if the plant had not been pruned.  

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

Roses:  Cut back dead, diseased or weak canes, removing about a third of the plant. Shape as needed and trim just above outward-facing buds. Hybrid teas, floribundas, and grandifloras benefit from a hard prune, while climbing roses need selective thinning. Pruning out old woody stems encourages new growth.

Knock Out Rose

Spirea: Pruning Spirea in spring encourages a fuller, compact and healthier plant with more abundant blooms. If you have summer-blooming Spirea (like Spiraea japonica), cut back by about one-third in early spring before new growth emerges. Spring-blooming varieties (like Spiraea vanhouttei) should be pruned after flowering.

Spirea japonica

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub): Trim to about 6–12 inches tall before new growth emerges. Since Caryopteris blooms on new wood, a hard prune leads to better flowering. Bluebeard Shrub benefits from pruning similar to Spirea, creating studier dense growth and a healthier more compact plant.

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub)

Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata & Hydrangea arborescens):  Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) and smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) bloom on new wood, and can be pruned now by cutting back no more than one-third of their height. These varieties include but are not limited to Hydrangea 'Tardiva',  'Endless Summer', Let's Dance 'Big Band', 'PeeGee', and 'Limelight'. Prune only as needed and avoid over pruning as it can lead to loss of blooms as the plant puts all of its energy into new growth. Avoid pruning bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) and Climbing Hydrangea in spring, as they bloom on old wood. For Hydrangea that bloom on old wood, it is alright to prune off only the faded blooms above where the buds appear and to thin out overcrowded and dead branches to improve air circulation and light penetration. 

Panicle Hydrangea

PERENNIALS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Hellebore (Lenten Rose): It is best to remove winter burned and tattered foliage from Hellebores in late winter-early spring to clean up the plant, allow blooms to be seen. New growth will start to appear once the temperatures warm. 

Hellebore (Lenten Rose)

Lily Turf (Liriope muscari & Liriope spicata): Use shears to cut back all foliage to about 2–3 inches tall before new growth appears in early spring. This practice refreshes the plant and removes tattered foliage.

Liriope (Lilyturf)

Ornamental Grasses (Miscanthus, Pennisetum, Panicum): Cut back to about 4–6 inches from the ground before new growth begins to clear out dead foliage and encourages new shoots. If you wait too long, new shoots will be difficult to avoid cutting.

Ornamental Grasses

PLANTS TO AVOID PRUNING IN SPRING:  

Some trees and shrubs bloom on old wood and should not be pruned in spring. Instead, wait until after they flower. These include but are not limited to Lilac (Syringa), Forsythia, Eastern Redbud, Flowering Dogwood, Kwanzan Cherry, Ornamental Plum, Azaleas and Rhododendrons, Weigela, Viburnum, Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla), Climbing Hydrangea and Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Note: Be very careful when pruning Hydrangea as many varieties produce their blooms on old wood from the previous season. 

As a rule of thumb, any tree or shrub that blooms in spring or early summer should not be pruned until after bloom. 

Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden! By pruning your trees, shrubs and perennials at the right time, you will set them up for a season of lush, healthy growth and abundant blooms. 

Visit my Author Page/Purchase My Books:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations  

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

The Houseplant Guide: How to Easily Select & Maintain Indoor Plants

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2025. All rights reserved. 

When to Prune Flowering Trees & Shrubs

Crape Myrtle 'Muskogee'

When is the proper time of pruning for flowering trees and shrubs? Part of the answer depends on whether the time of flowering is in the early spring or later in the season. As a general rule of thumb, prune flowering trees and shrubs immediately after flowering. 

Pruning correctly is important in maintaining the health and vigor of your landscape plants. Proper pruning helps to maintain the shape and form of your plants, helps to remove any unwanted growth, allows for the removal of any diseased or broken branches and helps to stimulate new growth and better flowering.   Not all trees and shrubs require regular pruning but if implemented it should be done correctly and at the right time of year (See Listing Below).

Pink Flowering Dogwood

Early spring bloomers formed their buds in early fall the season before on old wood. Pruning these plants before flowering in spring will result in cutting off the buds and decreased bloom.  Varieties of trees and shrubs that bloom earlier in the season (prior to the end of June) should be pruned immediately after flowering in late spring/summer. These plants include:  Flowering Dogwood, Forthysia, Flowering Crabapple, Flowering Cherry, Flowering Plum, Vibernum, Weigela, Magnolia, Wisteria, Mock Orange, Lilac, Rhododendron, Azalea and Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla).

Trees and shrubs that flower after the end of June develop their buds on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter to early spring (late March-early April). During this time the trees are dormant and it is easier to see before new growth starts.  Since these varieties form buds on the new wood of the season they can be pruned before buds set.   Examples of flowering shrubs that should be pruned while still dormant include:  Crape Myrtle, Bradford Pear, Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Knock Out Roses, Stewartia  Abelia, Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) and some varieties of Hydrangea such as Peegee (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’) and Endless Summer Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailmer').  'Annabelle' also blooms on new wood and can be pruned in early spring.

Often hardwood trees will sprout straight vertical branches from the base of the plant or roots called "suckers" or "water sprouts" that can interfere with the growth of other parts of the tree.  I often find it to be much easier to prune off these shoots while the tree is still dormant and the framework of the tree is visible.  This procedure is best done in late winter/early spring (late March).   If done later than November or December, pruning could spark the  tree to develop new growth that would not have enough time to "harden off" before winter.   Crape Myrtles and Magnolias are two trees that do not require much routine pruning but frequently send up "water sprouts".  Even though you may be tempted to prune these growths in late fall, resist the temptation and wait until late winter/early spring when it is healthier for the tree.

Rhododendron

PRUNE IN LATE SPRING (After Bloom):

Flowering Dogwood
Forthysia
Flowering Crabapple
Flowering Cherry
Thundercloud Flowering Plum
Vibernum
Weigela
Magnolia
Wisteria
Mock Orange
Lilac
Rhododendron
Azalea

PRUNE IN SUMMER (After Bloom):

Hydrangea 'Nikko Blue'

Bigleaf Hydrangea 'Nikko Blue'
Miniature Hydrangea 'Pia'

Hydrangea 'Peegee'

PRUNE IN LATE WINTER /EARLY SPRING (While Dormant):

Crape Myrtle
Bradford or Cleveland Select Pear
Butterfly Bush
Knock Out Roses
Stewartia
Abelia
Spirea (except 'Bridal Wreath')
'Peegee' Hydrangea
'Endless Summer ' Hydrangea
'Annabelle' Hydrangea



Flowering trees and shrubs are a wonderful asset to have in your garden and with proper maintenance they will continue to add years of bloom and color to your landscape.

As Always...Happy Gardening!


Author: Lee @ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.




Pruning Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)

Pruning Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)

 

Buddleia 'davidii'

Buddleia 'davidii' or Butterfly Bush is a wonderful shrub in the landscape for the naturalized garden. Hardy in zones 5-10 and growing between six and twelve feet in height,  its delicate arching branches and colorful nectar filled flowers are a major attraction for Hummingbirds and butterflies. Butterfly Bush are evergreen in areas where minimum winter temperatures are above twenty degrees and are deciduous where temperatures go below freezing.  In areas colder than zone 5, Buddleia may die back all the way to the ground and will grow vigorously once spring arrives.  In areas zone 5 and colder it is advisable to leave branches on until spring and to cover the root crown with mulch for winter protection.  Buddleia grow best in a well-drained fertile soil in full sun.

When To Prune Buddleia:  Buddleia 'davidii' blooms on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter /early spring to encourage new growth.  Prune before new growth starts to appear to approximately 12 inches (30 centimeters) above the ground.  Buddleia are a type of plant that highly benefit from a severe pruning.  "Hard" pruning Butterfly Bush promotes many new arching branches with larger flowers than if the plant had not been pruned. 

Later in the Season Pruning:  It is also beneficial to prune off dead and faded flowers once the flowering season has completed. With regular "deadheading" or removal of spent flowers your Buddleia will put its energy back into producing even more flowers well into fall.  In colder climates, never prune completely to the ground in Fall for it can be detrimental to the plant.  It is best to wait until late winter/early spring to perform this task.

Retaining Height of Buddleia:  If you chose to use your  Buddleia as a backdrop shrub simply allow it to grow larger then prune new growth so that the plant is approximately 24 inches (60 centimeters) in height.  Also by keeping the height in the center of the plant a little above the sides, the plant will grow in a nice shape appearing taller.  In either case, whether you choose to keep your plant higher as a backdrop or lower in front, a hard pruning will always benefit your plant and encourage new growth for the season. 


Buddleia Lo & Behold 'Blue Chip'

If you would like to try a dwarf form of buddleia that does not grow above three feet in height try the new Buddleia 'Blue Chip' from the Lo & Behold collection! 

Visit my Author Page and Books on Amazon:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9 
Landscape Design Combinations
Dream, Garden, Grow!

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Garden Maintenance: General Tree & Shrub Care Information

PRUNING EVERGREENS:
Most evergreens can be pruned at any time of year except during severe heat and drought or within a month before the first frost.   Ideally the best time to prune evergreens is believed to be in March (late winter or early spring) before new growth starts. This also eliminates any winter burn that can occur during especially cold weather and gives the evergreen a good start for Spring.  Your flowering evergreens are an exception to this rule and should not be pruned until after blooming (late spring).  Evergreens such as pine, spruce and fir produce their new yearly growth in shoots called "candles".  In order to encourage more compact growth cut the tips of the candles back half way before the needles unfold.   No plant is completely maintenance free so keep your evergreens trimmed to their desired size. This will also keep them full and healthy and prevent thinning out. NOTE: Evergreens will shed their needles or foliage in the Fall/Spring to allow for new growth. If any branches appear brown or dead after planting or after winter, trim them off and allow the plant to rejuvenate.


Cherry Laurel

WINTER CARE: BROAD LEAVED EVERGREENS:   Some Broad-Leaved Evergreens such as Cherry, Skip or Mountain Laurel, Japanese Aucuba, Leucothoe, Skimmia, Boxwood, Holly and Rhododendron can be subject to winter burn from dehydration due to water loss in the case of a cold and dry winter. Care should be taken in the usage of an anti-desiccant such as ‘Wilt-Pruf” Spray which should be applied two to three times during the winter months throughout periods of cold and thaw.  There is also a new product on the market which lasts for three months with only one application.  Ask your landscape professional for more information.

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES & SHRUBS:   As a general rule prune flowering trees, shrubs and evergreens after the bloom.  Shrubs including Azalea, Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Cherry Laurel, Forsythia, Mockorange, Magnolia and Flowering Crabapple can be pruned in late Spring after bloom.  Flowering shrubs such as hydrangea bloom on the last years growth and will not bloom if cut back in Spring. There are some newer varieties of hydrangea such as the 'Endless Summer' Hydrangea which blooms on new and old wood and 'All Summer Beauty' which blooms on the new season's wood that can be pruned at any time and are a welcome addition to the garden.  Shrubs such as Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) and Barberry 'Royal Burgundy' or 'Rosy Glow' improve bloom and fullness when cut back in late winter-early spring (March) before they get their leaves in Spring. Renovate Lilac in winter and prune for shape after flowering in Spring. Prune roses in Spring to remove winter damage before new growth starts.    Buddlea (Butterfly Bush) should be pruned back in late winter-early spring while dormant for best bloom.

MOVING TREES: Trim (or move) deciduous trees in Fall after leaves have fallen and tree is dormant. Evergreens can be moved in either Spring or Fall and must be keep well watered.

PERENNIALS: Deadhead perennials such as salvia though out summer for continuous repeat blooms. In Fall perennials should be allowed to die back then remove any unwanted foliage. Pruning back perennials can be done in either late Fall or early Spring (March) before new growth appears but it is recommended in the Fall in order to prevent disease. Note: There are some perennials such as liriope (lillyturf) and coral bells (Heuchera) that can provide nice winter interest and benefit from pruning in Spring.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES: Grasses should be cut back in late March before new growth appears. Leaving the grass during the winter provides nice interest to the garden and protects the root system as well.

FERTILIZING: Feed plants in Spring and Late Summer. Do not apply a full dose if feeding in the Fall apply a half dose for root feeding only. For new plantings allow the plantings to become established then apply a slow release organic fertilizer or apply a “starter” formula when planting. For established plants there are several products on the market but be careful not to buy a concentrated product that will burn the roots. A slow release or organic fertilizer such as Holly Tone is recommended.


WATERING:  As a general rule it is best to water less frequently and deep rather than everyday and shallow.  Water needs to get down to the roots of plants so it is recommended that trees, shrubs and perennials are watered every two to three days for approximately 40 minutes per area during Spring and Fall.  In cases of severe heat in summer months watering may be required more frequently.   Lawn areas in shade may require less watering and annuals may require daily watering at less time.  Monitor your plants frequently to adjust their watering accordingly.  It is also important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage.

LAWN CARE: Sod lawns can be planted anytime of year, preferably spring or fall. Avoid planting in extreme conditions of heat or cold and ensure proper irrigation to get your lawn established.  Seed lawns are best planted in the Fall (ideally between August 15 and October 15 here in zone 7) when temperatures are in the 60's and 70's.  Core Aeration and over-seeding are best done in the Fall to help rejuvenate a lawn and give it a healthy start for the following season. Your lawn should also have a regular maintenance program to keep it at its best. Ask your professional. 


INSECT CONTROL: Periodically check your plants for insect or fungal damage and treat if needed. It is advised to use a regular insect control maintenance program to keep your plantings healthy.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010. All Rights Reserved