Peony-Spring Splendor in the Garden

 


Paeonia lactiflora 'Karl Rosenfeld'

Looking for some spring splendor in the garden? Peony are herbaceous perennials that grow best in Zones 3-8 in full to part sun and prefer a moist, well-drained organic soil. Peony do prefer to be grown with their roots kept cool and protected which can be achieved by planting around them but not to compete with their food and water intake.  



Paeonia lactiflora 'Shirley Temple'

Mildly fragrant blossoms come in a variety of four different shapes including single, semi-double, double and anemone (also known as Imperial or Japanese).  They range in color from red to pink to coral 
to white and yellow in a few tree forms and are grown either as herbaceous shrub form (30-36 inches) or deciduous tree form (3-4 feet). Herbaceous peonies die back in winter, re-growing in spring and tree peony lose their leaves in winter but leave woody stems. One of my personal favorites is the beautiful Peony 'Karl Rosenfeld' shown in the photo above with its magnificent double red-pink blooms and yellow centers that highlight the garden from May to June. Some other popular varieties of peony are 'Sarah Bernhardt' (light pink double flowers),  ‘Shirley Temple’ (white flowers), ‘Red Charm’ (double red flowers) and ‘Festiva Maxima’ (double white flowers).

Paeonia lactiflora Largo

Peony do not like to be moved once established and do best when planted in fall or early spring.  They are sold as either a potted plant or bare root. If you decide to divide your peony dig the tuber up in mid fall. Cut the tuber into several sections making sure that each part has an “eye” as this is where the new plant reproduces. Plant the tubers with the eye facing upwards covered by 2-3 inches of soil. If you do have to move or divide your peony perform this chore with care. 


Paeonia lactiflora 'Red Charm'

After blooming the dark green foliage of these plants remains attractive in the garden through-out fall. Once the foliage starts to die back, peony should be cut to just above the ground to protect from disease. Peony do need a cool dormant period to survive but to protect the roots provide a covering of mulch or leaves during winter. In warmer climates it may be advisable to dig up and store the tubers in a cool spot and re-plant them in spring.

Tree Peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) 

Shelter your peony from strong winds and add organic material to their planting hole. If the soil is heavy with clay or sandy, enrich it with compost.  Some peony have very strong stems but the large flowers can sometimes get top heavy. If so support the branches with a garden stake and loosely tie with string to support the plant. Most tree peony tend to be more structurally sound and need to be staked less often or not at all.

Paeonia Buckeye Belle

The question is often asked as to why ants are seen crawling on the peony buds. They are actually serving a purpose by eating nectar and attacking bud-eating pests and also helping your peony to bloom.

With proper care peony flowers can live for up to a hundred years. The blooming period for peony ranges from mid spring to mid summer and there are over 500 varieties of peony flower.  If you are looking for a beautiful spring addition for your garden then Peony is the plant for you. I for one look forward to  enjoying the elegance and beauty of this perennial in my own gardens year after year.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011/Updated 2014 All Rights Reserved.

Winter Landscape Design Photos-Structure in the Garden

Barberry 'Rosy Glow' (Winter Landscape)

Winter gardening can have its challenges but there are several things you can do to add interest to your landscape. Structure and form are always important factors to consider and especially when planning for winter. When designing for winter interest it is important to look at the backbone or framework of the garden. An assortment of evergreens along with deciduous trees and shrubs can help to accomplish this task.

An important factor to consider is the branch structure of your trees and shrubs. There is nothing more beautiful than the gentle touch of a winter’s first snow on the branches of trees. Also plantings that display berries in winter or left over seedpods, such as barberry and crape myrtle, can be beautiful when the snow arrives.  Ornamental grasses when kept throughout the winter add interest as well.  

It was snowing here again in the northeast so I had to run out once again and capture some new photos-another Canon moment!  Here is a selection of photos of trees and shrubs that complement the winter landscape.  Also visit my blog on winter landscape design at:  Designing The Winter Garden-Creating All Year Interest in the Landscape.  "A garden is an extension of its owner...a thing of beauty that constantly changes and can be enjoyed forever..."

Crape Myrtle 'Tuscarora' (Winter Garden)

Dwarf Fountain Grass (Winter Interest)

Golden Oriental Spruce 'Skyland' (Winter Garden)

Crape Myrtle 'Tuscarora' Winter Interest

Snow Covered Mugo Pine

Weeping Japanese Maple (Winter Landscape)

Winter Love!

Winter Landscape Garden Photos: The Beauty of Nature's Artwork

The snow is falling in the Northeast and the view is beautiful.   I had to run outside and take advantage of this photo opportunity.  There is nothing more breathtaking than a winter's first snow and this is it.  It has only been snowing for a few hours and the ground and gardens are already covered in a blanket of shimmering white.  Enjoy the photos.  I am sure there will be more once the storm passes.



Waterfall and White Pine in snow

Nature's Artwork (after the storm)

Snow Covered Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar



Magnolia in Snow

Snow covered Weeping Norway Spruce

Nature's Framework (Weeping 'Youngi' Birch in snow)



The Quiet of Nature (Blanket covered Dwarf Serbian Spruce)



Nature's Artwork (Weeping Japanese Maple)

Snow topped Montgomery 'Globe Spruce' (grafted)

The color of springtime is in the flowers, the color of winter is in the imagination. ~Terri Guillemets

"Every gardener knows that under the cloak of winter lies a miracle ... a seed waiting to sprout, a bulb opening to the light, a bud straining to unfurl. And the anticipation nurtures our dream."
- Barbara Winkler

Winterizing Evergreens-Anti-Desiccant Spray

Have you ever noticed scorched and browned foliage on certain broad-leaved evergreens after winter? Winter cold and winds can be harsh on your landscape. Evergreen trees and shrubs maintain foliage throughout the winter months where they continue to lose moisture. With winter temperature fluctuations, moisture loss and the ground still frozen, transpiration occurs from the needles and leaves increasing water demand. If the roots cannot keep up with these demands the needles and leaves start to turn brown and die.  Winter burn or desiccation is a dehydration of the plant due to water loss from the leaves through transpiration. This is caused by long dry periods of cold and thaw along with winter winds. Some broad-leaved evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese Skimmia, Osmanthus (False Holly), Leucothoe, Aucuba and Boxwood are even more susceptible to winter drying and long-term damage.  An easy way of avoiding winter damage to plants is to apply an anti-desiccant spray to the upper and lower parts of the foliage before the temperatures drop below freezing or during a winter thaw.

PLANTS PRONE TO WINTER BURN: broad-leaved evergreens such as Boxwood, Holly (examples include: Oakleaf Holly, Nellie Stevens Holly, Sky Pencil Holly, Hoogendorn, Northern Beauty, Steeds and other compact Holly), rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese Skimmia, Osmanthus, Leucothoe, Aucuba, Southern Magnolia, Euonymus and Japanese Andromeda.

WHEN TO APPLY: Apply anti-desiccant when the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees (Fall-late October/mid-November here in zone 7). Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.) Anti-desiccants are organic and break down under heat and light so it is recommended to spray again in late winter if there is a prolonged winter thaw. The newer brands of anti-desiccant such as Wilt Stop and Transfilm are produced to last throughout winter with good coverage.

DANGERS: Be sure to read all directions on the label since anti-desiccants can cause photo toxicity on some narrow needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Hinoki Cypress and Spruce that could cause more harm than winter burn.  Spraying in freezing temperatures will do harm to the plant.  Do not spray in freezing temperatures and allow time to dry before temperatures drop below 32^oF or 0^oC.

HOW OFTEN DOES IT NEED TO BE APPLIED: Sudden warm spells can trigger your evergreens to open their pores allowing for more water loss. If there is a winter thaw part way through the season it is recommended to re-spray your plants but only if the temperatures are to remain above freezing for at least 24 hours.

WHERE DO I PURCHASE ANTI-DESICCANT?: The most commonly used brands of anti-desiccant are Wilt-Stop and Transfilm that can be found in nurseries, garden centers or ordered online. Ask your landscape professional for more information.

HOW IT WORKS: Anti-desiccant spray is organic and biodegradable. It adds a protective waxy coating to the tops and undersides of the leaves of broad-leaved evergreens to help slow the process of transpiration which causes water loss and winter damage.

Looking for some gardening help and inspiration? Check out my Author Page & Books!

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2023. All rights reserved. 

Designing The Winter Garden – Creating All Year Interest in the Landscape

Welcome to the world of winter gardening.  As a landscape designer the three major aspects I look at when designing any landscape are structure, form and function. Even though all three are equally important the structure and form of a garden especially come into play during the wintertime. When designing for winter interest it is important to look at the backbone or framework of the garden. An assortment of evergreens along with deciduous trees and shrubs can help to accomplish this task. An important factor to consider is the branch structure of your trees and shrubs. There is nothing more beautiful than the gentle touch of a winter’s first snow on the branches of trees. Form and structure of trees and shrubs in the landscape offer the most interest when they are unusual in some way. For instance the crooked shaped curly branches of a Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick or Corkscrew Willow are most prominent once their leaves have fallen and each attracts a lot more attention for their unusual structure during the winter than any other time of the year.

The first step in designing a winter garden is to plan for a backdrop of evergreen trees, which will catch the winter snow and show a continuum of green throughout the winter months. Evergreens that show nice winter interest with deep evergreen coloring and bright red berries include hollies such as Ilex ‘Nellie Stevens’, Ilex aquiparynl ‘Dragon Lady’, Ilex crenata ‘Fastigiata’ or ‘Chesapeake, Red Oakleaf Holly or any of the blue Hollies such as Ilex meserveae ‘Blue Maid’. Other evergreen trees that serve as winter interest include Eastern White Pine, Japanese Cryptomeria, Blue Atlas Cedar, Blue Spruce, Western Arborvitae, Arborvitae ‘Emerald Green’, Golden Oriental Spruce, Norway Spruce, Weeping Alaskan Cedar, and Vanderwolf’s Limber Pine.

Much of the color in a winter garden comes from fruiting trees and shrubs. Along with members of the holly family, fruiting shrubs such as barberry, nandina (heavenly bamboo), callicarpa (beauty bush), vibernum, red chokeberry, winterberry and yew add interest to the garden and supply a food source for birds. Deciduous shrubs such as hydrangea and spirea also add much interest with their full branching structure and left over flower heads that glisten when frosted over. Ornamental grasses when left intact offer color to the winter landscape as well and act as a food source for birds.

Branching deciduous trees such as Crepe Myrtle, Magnolia, Birch, Weeping Cherry and Wisteria have an interesting layered branch structure that adds form to the winter garden. Known for their bark Coral Bark Maple (Acer palmatum 'Sango-kaku') and Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea Stolonifera’) come to mind. The striking pinkish-red bark of Coral Bark Maple and bright red bark of the Red Twig Dogwood are an eye-catching display of color during the cold months of winter. Another shrub form of dogwood, Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’ or Yellow Twig Dogwood offers showy bright yellow stems that are pronounced against a snowy backdrop. River Birch with its cinnamon colored bark in winter is also an excellent highlight. Other shrubs and trees known for their interesting structure include Weeping Japanese Maple, Weeping ‘Youngi’ Birch, Harry Lauders Walking Stick and Sycamore. There are even shrubs that bloom in winter such as Witch Hazel with its yellow blooms.

When it comes to structure different hardscape items can be used to add interest and dimension to the landscape. The use of strategically placed boulders for example can add some drama and impact to an ordinarily flat landscape. I often use a boulder border on chosen garden beds to add height to an area or add a large rock surrounded by low lying plantings so that in the winter there is added interest. The use of walls, fountains, birdbaths or garden art can add to the winter landscape as well and capture interest all year round.

The possibilities in the world of gardening are endless and a garden can be designed for all seasons. I hope you have found this information useful and that you too can add some winter interest to your landscape.

Author: Lee @A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010. All Rights Reserved.

Winterizing Your Garden: 12 Helpful Tips

As seasons change and the temperatures are dropping here in the northeast, it's time to prepare your garden for its winter sleep.  Preparing your garden for winter is essential in any climate in which the temperatures drop below freezing (Hardiness Zones 1-9).  Regular garden maintenance will ensure the health and beauty of your landscape for years to come.  Here are twelve helpful tips.

1. Remove leaves from the lawn and garden.  Leaves left over winter can harbor fungal disease and damage your lawn or perennials.  Either add your leaves to a compost area or shred them.  A fine layer of shredded leaves can add valuable organic matter to your garden and can be used as mulch protection for your plants.

Hosta' Francee Williams'

2. Cut back perennials to a couple of inches above the ground. Perennials that benefit from winter pruning include salvia, coreopsis, sedum, gaillardia, nepeta and daylily.  Hosta should be completely cleared of dead foliage to prevent fungal disease.  When the hosta has completely died back simply clean the yellowed leaves from around the plant and apply a thin layer of mulch over the crown. Liriope is somewhat sensitive to cold and can be pruned half way but not all the way down.  Some perennials are very cold sensitive such as Heuchera (coral bells), astilbe, liatris, lavender, perovskia (russian sage) and lupine and should be left to be pruned in early spring.

Canna Lily

3. Pull up any annuals or vegetables destroyed by frost and put into a compost pile or dispose of them.

4. Dig up tender bulbs such as gladiolus, cannas and dahlias that do not survive the winter and store them in a cool dry place such as a crawl space or garage in either a paper bag or in a container of vermiculite.

5. Plant spring blooming bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinth and crocus from September through early November.  

Astilbe 'Sprite'

6. Check and apply mulch to your gardens around perennials and shrubs in areas where the  temperatures fall below freezing for long periods of time. The mulch serves as insulation for the plants and provides some important protection during winter freezes and thaws and also helps to prevent moisture loss.

7. Apply an anti-desiccant spray to any broadleaf evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese skimmia, leucothoe, aucuba and boxwood. These plants can be subject to severe winter burn due to water loss from the leaves by transpiration.  Apply an anti-desiccant when the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees (late fall/early winter). Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. Application can be repeated in cases of mid-winter thaw.  (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.)

Cherry Laurel 'Otto Luyken'

8. Water evergreens, trees and shrubs until the ground freezes. It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health. A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage.

9. Weed your garden beds now. Weeds seem to show up and thrive in the fall garden so pull them up before they get out of control.  This prevents further weeds from developing and gives your garden a good start for spring!

10.In very windy areas cover your evergreens with burlap or form a wind barrier to prevent chilling winds from drying out and causing winter burn on your plants.

11.Do not fertilize or prune plants as winter approaches. Pruning or fertilization can spark new growth. If a hard frost hits it could kill the new growth and harm your plant. Do trim out dead or damaged branches.

12.Use dormant oil on deciduous trees to prevent spring insect damage. Spraying of dormant oil should be done on a clear day when the temperatures are expected to remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not spray if freezing temperatures are in the forecast.

Following these simple tips will help to ensure the health, beauty and lifetime of your landscape and will give your garden a good start for next year.  Gardening doesn't have to stop just because the  temperatures are dropping.  There is much to do to get your garden ready for the winter months so grab your tools!  Watch for more to come on winter gardening and designing your landscape for winter.

Lee@ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010 All Rights Reserved

Fall Garden Photos: The Fall Garden In All Its Glory-A Moment in Time

Crape Myrtle 'Sioux'

I just gazed out into my garden on this autumn day and had to share the spectacular array of color that was before me.  This is certainly one of the most beautiful fall displays we have had in a long time here in the Northeast. It is about to rain so the lighting is just right.  I had to run out with my camera in a timely fashion before the weather took a turn for the worse. It was one of those rare Canon moments that I could not resist and would probably not be able to capture again.   The Crape Myrtle 'Sioux' is magnificent standing in all its fall glory displaying hues of orange to red and the grasses are displaying their showy plumes and golden color.  The flower caps on the Sedum 'Brilliant' are now a fiery orange-red and the heuchera are showing off a brilliant  burgundy glow.  A blend of oranges, reds and gold playfully dance in the wind as displayed by Spirea 'Gold Flame'.   Then onto the Coral Bark Maple that glows like golden rays of sunshine and this specimen will soon show off its spectacular fiery red bark in winter.   The Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar and Golden Oriental Spruce now against the oranges and gold of fall are absolutely vibrant.  This is just a brief moment captured in time that will change again tomorrow and the next day and the next until this show is over and winter sets in.  Then the gentle flakes of snow will settle on the garden and bring forth even more to gaze at in awe.  A garden really is forever changing and can be enjoyed throughout every season of the year. There is always something new to encounter and this fall display is a real crowd pleaser. Enjoy the photos! 


Dwarf Fountain Grass, Sedum and Juniperus 'Blue Star'



Crape Myrtle in Background with Hinoki Cypress Aurea to left



Golden Oriental Spruce 'Skylands' (Right), Nepeta (Front), and Barberry (Left) with Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar in Background

Coral Bark Maple



Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar (Back Left), Golden Oriental Spruce 'Skylands' (Right), Barberry & Nepeta



Coral Bark Maple (Back Left), Golden Oriental Spruce 'Skylands' (Right), Barberry(Front Center)

Crape Myrtle 'Sioux' and Weeping Norway Spruce

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