Spring Pruning Guide: When & What to Prune

This Month in the Garden

As the weather warms up and new growth begins to emerge, early spring is an ideal time to prune many shrubs and perennials. Pruning helps shape plants, encourage healthy growth, and improve flowering and foliage. However, timing is key—some plants benefit from spring pruning, while others should be left alone until later in the season. When pruning, use clean, sharp tools to make precise cuts and prevent disease spread. Prune on a dry day to minimize disease risk, and avoid pruning too late once new growth has started to emerge, especially for plants that bloom on new wood.

Here’s a guide to common trees, shrubs and perennials that should be pruned now in spring for their best performance. When in doubt, always research specific plant needs before pruning, since some plants require light shaping, while others benefit from hard rejuvenation pruning.

TREES & SHRUBS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia): Crape Myrtle bloom later in summer on the new wood of the season and can be pruned in late winter-early spring before new growth occurs. Avoid harsh cutting (often referred to as Crape Murder) and focus on removing only damaged or crossing branches or sucker growth emerging from the bottom of the plant. A light pruning is recommended to reduce overall height, improve shape and encourage stronger growth.

Crape Myrtle 'Sioux'

Abelia:  Trim back up to one-third of the plant, focusing on removing dead or weak branches. Abelias bloom on new wood, so pruning now will not reduce flowering and make a more compact plant. Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches and long shoots to encourage vigorous new growth and abundant blooms in summer.

Abelia 'Kaliedoscope'

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia 'davidii'): blooms on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Prune branches when you see green buds appearing and before new growth starts to approximately 12-24 inches from the ground. Buddleia highly benefits from a severe pruning.  "Hard" pruning promotes many new arching branches with larger flowers than if the plant had not been pruned.  

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

Roses:  Cut back dead, diseased or weak canes, removing about a third of the plant. Shape as needed and trim just above outward-facing buds. Hybrid teas, floribundas, and grandifloras benefit from a hard prune, while climbing roses need selective thinning. Pruning out old woody stems encourages new growth.

Knock Out Rose

Spirea: Pruning Spirea in spring encourages a fuller, compact and healthier plant with more abundant blooms. If you have summer-blooming Spirea (like Spiraea japonica), cut back by about one-third in early spring before new growth emerges. Spring-blooming varieties (like Spiraea vanhouttei) should be pruned after flowering.

Spirea japonica

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub): Trim to about 6–12 inches tall before new growth emerges. Since Caryopteris blooms on new wood, a hard prune leads to better flowering. Bluebeard Shrub benefits from pruning similar to Spirea, creating studier dense growth and a healthier more compact plant.

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub)

Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata & Hydrangea arborescens):  Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) and smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) bloom on new wood, and can be pruned now by cutting back no more than one-third of their height. These varieties include but are not limited to Hydrangea 'Tardiva',  'Endless Summer', Let's Dance 'Big Band', 'PeeGee', and 'Limelight'. Prune only as needed and avoid over pruning as it can lead to loss of blooms as the plant puts all of its energy into new growth. Avoid pruning bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) and Climbing Hydrangea in spring, as they bloom on old wood. For Hydrangea that bloom on old wood, it is alright to prune off only the faded blooms above where the buds appear and to thin out overcrowded and dead branches to improve air circulation and light penetration. 

Panicle Hydrangea

PERENNIALS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Hellebore (Lenten Rose): It is best to remove winter burned and tattered foliage from Hellebores in late winter-early spring to clean up the plant, allow blooms to be seen. New growth will start to appear once the temperatures warm. 

Hellebore (Lenten Rose)

Lily Turf (Liriope muscari & Liriope spicata): Use shears to cut back all foliage to about 2–3 inches tall before new growth appears in early spring. This practice refreshes the plant and removes tattered foliage.

Liriope (Lilyturf)

Ornamental Grasses (Miscanthus, Pennisetum, Panicum): Cut back to about 4–6 inches from the ground before new growth begins to clear out dead foliage and encourages new shoots. If you wait too long, new shoots will be difficult to avoid cutting.

Ornamental Grasses

PLANTS TO AVOID PRUNING IN SPRING:  

Some trees and shrubs bloom on old wood and should not be pruned in spring. Instead, wait until after they flower. These include but are not limited to Lilac (Syringa), Forsythia, Eastern Redbud, Flowering Dogwood, Kwanzan Cherry, Ornamental Plum, Azaleas and Rhododendrons, Weigela, Viburnum, Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla), Climbing Hydrangea and Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Note: Be very careful when pruning Hydrangea as many varieties produce their blooms on old wood from the previous season. 

As a rule of thumb, any tree or shrub that blooms in spring or early summer should not be pruned until after bloom. 

Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden! By pruning your trees, shrubs and perennials at the right time, you will set them up for a season of lush, healthy growth and abundant blooms. 

Visit my Author Page/Purchase My Books:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations  

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

The Houseplant Guide: How to Easily Select & Maintain Indoor Plants

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2025. All rights reserved. 

Landscape Plant Care in Freezing Temperatures

This Month in the Garden

Winter can be a challenging season for outdoor plants. Freezing temperatures, frost, and harsh winds can harm or even kill your garden’s greenery if not properly protected. However, with some planning and care, you can ensure your plants survive through the cold months. Here’s how to give your outdoor plants the preventive care they need during freezing weather.

1. Plant Hardiness: Understanding the hardiness of your plants is the first step. Some plants, like pansies and evergreens, are naturally cold-tolerant, while others are more vulnerable. Use the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to determine which plants are best suited for your region and which need extra protection during winter. By the way, here on Long Island we are in hardiness zone 7b. Also, when choosing plants, try to choose those that are cold hardy one to two zones colder than where you live.

2. Monitor Weather Forecasts: Stay informed about upcoming freezes, frost warnings, and temperature drops. Quick action such as covering plants or moving containers can make all the difference in preventing damage. It is the extreme temperature fluctuations that are most detrimental to your outdoor plants.

3. Mulch for Insulation: Adding a layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves can help insulate the soil and roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Mulch acts like a blanket, retaining warmth in the ground and preventing frost heaving, where repeated freezing and thawing push roots out of the soil. Apply a 2–4 inch layer around the base of your plants but keep it away from the stem to avoid rot.

4. Anti-Desiccants: Some broadleaved evergreens such as Rhododendron, Azalea, Aucuba, Skip and Cherry Laurel, Holly and Leucothoe (to name a few) lose excessive moisture through their leaves in winter. Applying an anti-desiccant spray can help prevent water loss and protect foliage from drying winds. Anti-desiccant should be sprayed in the late fall/early winter as a preventive before freezing temperatures occur. Follow the instructions on the product label and do not apply when temperatures are going below freezing, as this can do more harm than good and put the plant at risk. With the temperature extremes we have been having, and popularity of certain tropical-like plants such as palms and banana trees increasing in outdoor spaces, anti-desiccant can be a helpful preventive.

Thermonasty: During frigid days when temperatures reach below 20 degrees, certain broad-leaved evergreens such as Rhododendron, display a unique trait known as thermonasty. This adaptation causes the leaves of the plant to act as a natural thermometer. When temperatures dip below freezing, leaf margins curl inward causing the leaf to roll up and droop. This process reduces the surface area of the leaves, thereby reducing water loss. Also, the narrow, drooping, needle-like leaves help to shed snow, which would otherwise accumulate and break branches.

5. Keep your Plants Hydrated: Hydration is crucial for plants in winter, but overwatering can be just as harmful as dehydration. Before a freeze, give your sensitive plants a deep watering to ensure the roots are well-hydrated. This helps the soil retain warmth and protects the roots from freezing. Avoid watering during freezing temperatures, as it can lead to ice damage. Watering before a deep freeze works well with outdoor container gardens and should be done before covering the plant.

6. Frost Heaving: Certain perennials such as Heuchera (Coral Bells) are subject to frost heaving during extreme temperatures. This occurs as the ground freezes, then thaws, then freezes again, causing the roots of the plant to uplift. When this occurs, gently push the crown of the root back into the soil with your foot. If possible, push some extra mulching around the plant for further protection. The mulch will help keep the plants roots and crown in contact with the insulating soil.

7. Relocate/Cover and Protect Plants: Plants in containers are more susceptible to cold weather because their roots are less insulated. Move pots to a sheltered location, such as a garage, porch, or greenhouse. If relocating isn’t an option, frost cloths, burlap, or even old bed sheets can shield your plants from freezing temperatures. Cover delicate plants, such as citrus trees or young or tender shrubs, when frost is predicted. Make sure the cover extends to the ground to trap heat from the soil, and secure it with stakes or rocks to prevent it from blowing away. Avoid using plastic directly on plants, as it can trap moisture and cause more harm.

8. Avoid Pruning in Winter: While it’s tempting to prune during winter, avoid heavy cutting as it can stimulate new growth that’s vulnerable to frost. Instead, wait until late winter or early spring when the risk of freezing has passed. For now, remove only dead or damaged limbs to prevent disease. An additional note is to not try to remove frozen ice from the plant. It is best to allow the plant to thaw naturally, as not to damage/break any branches.

9. Build Wind Barriers: Strong winter winds can dry out plants and cause damage, especially in areas located near water. Create windbreaks using fences, screens, or even stacks of straw bales to shield your garden. Place these barriers on the side of your plants that faces the prevailing wind to minimize exposure. 

10. Build Cold Frames & Cloches: Cold frames and cloches are great for protecting tender plants or seedlings from frost. A cold frame is essentially a mini greenhouse, while cloches are dome-shaped covers placed over individual plants. These structures help to extend the gardening season by  trapping heat and creating a microclimate that helps plants survive harsh conditions. Each method captures the daytime solar energy; thus, heating the surrounding air and the soil floor, while helping to insulate plants. Try to place your cold frame in a sheltered location (as near a structure) and away from strong winds.

Winter doesn’t have to mean the end of your garden’s beauty. By preparing your outdoor plants for freezing weather, you can protect their health and enjoy a thriving landscape come spring. With proper insulation, hydration, and care, your plants will emerge stronger and ready for the growing season.

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden. Be sure to stop by on the 1st. and 15th. of each month as I continue to share gardening tips, information and horticultural adventures! Catch up on posts and other news with my newsletter, Northeastern Gardening News. Subscribe for free to receive monthly updates. 

My Author Page & Books

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations  

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

The Houseplant Guide: How to Easily Select & Maintain Indoor Plants

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2025. All rights reserved. 

Late Summer Gardening Chores and Maintenance

Welcome to This Month in the Garden!

As the days of summer begin to wane, late summer is a critical time for gardeners to prepare their spaces for the transition into fall. While the days are still warm, the subtle changes in light and temperature signal that it’s time to focus on garden maintenance. Here's a guide to essential late summer gardening chores to keep your garden healthy and vibrant as the seasons change.

Mophead Hydrangea

Deadheading and Pruning: Late summer is the perfect time to deadhead flowering plants. By removing spent flowers, you encourage perennials like salvia, daylilies, daisies, and zinnias to produce more blooms and extend their flowering period. Additionally, pruning back overgrown shrubs and perennials not only tidies up your garden but also promotes healthier growth. Be cautious with late pruning, though, as cutting too much can stimulate new growth that might not have time to harden off before the first frost. Be careful with pruning hydrangea as not to jeopardize next year's blooms. Only remove dead wood from the center of the plant and avoid cutting stems, as buds could already be forming on previous growth. The spent blooms can be removed, or enjoyed over the winter, and removed the following spring. If you desire deadheading, remove the dried flower head by cutting the stem just below it and just above the next set of leaves at an angle. The seed heads of perennials such as Echinacea (Coneflower) are a food source enjoyed by birds such as American Goldfinch and can also serve as interest until cutting back the plant later in fall. 

Echinacea (Coneflower)

Also, consider dividing and transplanting spring blooming perennials such as Daylilies and Iris that have outgrown their space. Dig up the parent plant with a spade and gently lift it above the ground. Remove any loose dirt from around the roots and separate the plant into smaller sections with a sharp clean spade or by gently pulling apart by hand. Each division should have three to five vigorous shoots and a decent sized rooting system. Dig the hole slightly larger than the plant, place level with the surrounding soil and maintain watering throughout the remainder of the season. Now is an excellent time as the temperatures cool and the timing allows for roots to establish before the first evenings of frost set in. A general rule of thumb is to divide spring blooming perennials in the late summer or early fall, and to divide late summer-fall blooming perennials in early springtime when new growth is emerging.

Daylily 'Stella D Oro' Late Summer

Watering: Even though temperatures may be slightly cooler, your garden still needs consistent watering. Late summer drought can stress plants, making them more susceptible to diseases and pests. Deep watering is essential to ensure roots remain hydrated. Continue watering until the first signs of frost are in the forecast.

Hydrangea Limelight Prime

Weeding: Weeds are notorious for thriving in late summer, often competing with your plants for nutrients and water. Regular weeding is crucial during this period to prevent them from going to seed and spreading further. Consider pulling weeds after a rain when the soil is moist, making the task easier.

Knock Out Rose 'Radrazz'

Pest and Disease Management & Feeding: Late summer can bring a host of pests and diseases that target weakened or stressed plants. Inspect your garden regularly for signs of trouble, such as yellowing leaves, holes in foliage, or powdery mildew. Depending on the issue, you may need to remove affected plants, apply organic pest control methods, or consider natural remedies like neem oil or insecticidal soaps. By late summer, many plants may have exhausted the nutrients in the soil. Fertilize your garden with a balanced organic fertilizer to give your plants a much-needed nutrient boost. Focus on perennials, shrubs, and late-blooming flowers that will benefit from the extra nourishment as they prepare for the colder months ahead. Keep enjoying the garden as roses, some species of hydrangea and rejuvenated perennials continue to shine, while later flowering perennials including Montauk Daisy, Mums and Asters prepare to display their late summer-fall blooms!

Montauk Daisy

Harvesting, Planting & Composting: Late summer is harvest time for many vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Be sure to pick produce as soon as it ripens to encourage continued production. At the same time, it’s an excellent opportunity to plant cool-season crops like kale, spinach, and radishes, which can thrive in the cooler temperatures of early fall. With an abundance of garden waste, late summer is a prime time to enhance your compost pile. Add grass clippings, pulled weeds (avoiding those with seeds), and spent annuals to your compost. Turn the pile regularly to speed up decomposition, ensuring you’ll have rich compost ready for next spring.

Keep Enjoying the Garden!

Late summer gardening is all about balance and nurturing your plants through the remaining warm days while preparing them for the cooler months ahead. By staying on top of these chores, you can keep your garden looking beautiful and healthy, setting the stage for a successful transition into fall. Whether you're deadheading blooms, mulching, or planting fall crops, the effort you put in now will pay off as your garden continues to flourish.

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden. Be sure to stop by on the 1st. and 15th. of each month as I continue to share gardening tips, information and horticultural adventures! 

 Plan your Garden with my Books! 

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening 

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2024. All rights reserved. 

This Month in the Garden: Winter Gardening: Protecting Your Outdoor Plants from the Cold

Over the last couple of years, temperature extremes during the winter months have taken a toll on our outdoor gardens. From weeks of mild temperatures in the 40's and 50's to cold blasts plummeting temperatures into the teens and even single digits, these extremes pose a risk to plants, and safeguarding them from the harsh cold becomes crucial for maintaining their health. Some broad-leaved evergreens such as Rhododendron will even tell you when temperatures are below 20 degrees. Their leaves will curl in severe cold, a process known as thermonasty, which helps to reduce surface area and conserve moisture. There is a way you can be proactive. Here are some effective strategies to help you protect your green companions during the chilly months.

Choose Cold-Resistant Plants: When purchasing plants, be sure to choose those which can withstand temperatures which are one to two zones colder than your location. Research and select species that thrive in your specific region, as they are more likely to withstand winter conditions. For sensitive plants or those in containers, consider bringing them indoors during extreme cold spells. A garage or enclosed porch can provide a temporary shelter until milder weather returns. For certain landscape plants which are broad-leaved, such as Rhododendron, Azalea, Osmanthus (False Holly), Euonymus, Aucuba, Cherry, Skip and Mountain Laurel, Leucothoe, Boxwood and Holly, the use of an anti-desiccant before winter sets in is recommended. 

Apply Mulching: A layer of organic mulch around the base of your plants will insulate the soil and regulate temperature. This acts as a protective barrier, preventing extreme temperature fluctuations that can be harmful to plant roots. Ideally, the best time to mulch is during late spring to early summer, or early fall. Be sure to mulch way before any sign of frost, as applying at the incorrect time can have the opposite effect and cause harm.

Proper Watering: Adjust your watering routine as winter approaches. Ensure that the soil is adequately hydrated before the first frost, as moist soil retains heat better than dry soil. However, be cautious not to overwater, as waterlogged soil can lead to root rot. With your outdoor containers, give them a good watering before you know there is going to be a severe temperature drop. This will help them to hydrate before the deep freeze.

Watch for Frost Heaving: In freezing temperatures soil around your plants may be subject to frost heaving. This is when ice forms underneath the soil and expands upwards from the ground causing plants such as perennials to push upwards exposing the crown. Heuchera (Coral Bells) and Liriope are especially prone to this type of damage. As a preventive measure apply mulch finishing to your garden beds. To remedy, once the ground thaws, slightly tap the soil back down, and brush the mulch back around the exposed crown of the plant. During the time of frost heaving, avoid stepping into garden beds, as this can cause the soil to become too compact. Compacting the soil too much can have a negative effect on future soil drainage. 

Cover Plants: Stay informed about upcoming weather conditions. Cover plants when extreme temperature drops are predicted. Use protective covers, such as burlap or frost cloth, to shield your plants from frost and freezing winds. Make sure the covers are secured tightly to prevent heat loss, especially during the coldest nights. If you have potted plants, consider moving them closer to the house or clustering them together. This provides additional warmth and protection against the cold. Elevate containers to prevent them from sitting directly on cold surfaces and use frost covering until the freezing temperatures subside. Once the threat of plummeting temperatures has passed, you can uncover the plant and keep the cover nearby. For larger plantings, the use of temporary windbreaks such as wooden or fabric barriers can be used to shield plants from strong offshore winter winds.

Tips on Pruning & Fertilization: As a preventive measure, any dead or damaged branches should be pruned off trees and shrubs before winter sets in. Pruning encourages healthy growth and minimizes the risk of disease. However, avoid heavy pruning in late fall, as it may stimulate new growth that is vulnerable to frost. Adjust your fertilization routine in late fall to promote plant hardiness. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers, as they can encourage tender growth susceptible to frost damage.

The winter months can be quite unpredictable and tend to be more drastic during the months of January, February, and even through March when the seasons are changing. By taking these proactive measures, you can ensure the health and vitality of your outdoor plants. Remember that each plant is unique, so tailor your approach based on their specific needs and the climate of your region.

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden. Be sure to stop by on the 1st. and 15th. of each month as I continue to share gardening tips, information and horticultural adventures! 

Plant your Garden for Spring with my Books!:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2024. All rights reserved. 

Happy New Year!: 2023 Gardening Year in Review

January Garden

Happy New Year and welcome to This Month in the Garden. It was both a busy and rewarding year in my Long Island (now zone 7b) garden. January started off the year with temperatures in the upper 40's, and a chill in the air, but not too unbearable to venture outside. In the past, I would never think of working in the garden in January, but on the milder days, I was able to get some time in tending to weeds and just enjoying the outdoors. Some sights to see for January are the varying colors of foliage and the blooms of Helleborous 'Shooting Star'. Its foliage remains evergreen year round and buds appear in December, which open in January and last for months. It is interesting to note that the flowers are really not flowers at all, but bracts, which is why they last for so long. 

February Garden

February certainly was an interesting month to say the least! After a relatively uneventful January with milder than usual temperatures, February 4th brought in temperatures in the single digits, with 45 mph winds, and a wind chill of 30 below zero! Needless to say, I did not venture out into the garden that day! A few days later, temperatures returned to 50 degrees and the rest of the month was a rollercoaster ride, going from fifty degrees one day to into the thirties the next, with a couple of 10 degree nights thrown in. The end of February brought temperatures in the 60's followed by our first and only dusting of snow on the 28th. In the midst of a crazy winter, Hellebore 'Shooting Star' were in bloom, while Hyacinth and Sedum started to prematurely emerge from their sleep. 

March Garden

Did I mention that this has been one of the most unusual winters I can remember? With temperatures in the 60's in late February, followed by our first and only accumulating snow of just two inches on February 28th, March came with daytime temperatures fluctuating from the mid to upper 50's to the 40's and back again. To add a little excitement, a nor'easter with large sprawling snowflakes and enough snowfall to cover the garden came to us on the 14th, which was Mother Nature's way of saying, "I'm not done yet!" Even with the unpredictable weather, blooms of Hellebore continued, while the remainder of the month brought purple crocus flowers, new foliage, buds and more blooms.

April Garden

The month of April brought spring temperatures in the 60 to 70 degree range, with two days of 80 degree temperatures mid-month. With summer like temperatures and longer hours of daylight the gardening season was definitely underway. After a day of designing, I would wander out into the garden and get some chores done, which makes me happy. Magnolia, Flowering Plum, Forthysia, Hyancinth and Pulmonaria were all in bloom along with blooms from later blooming Hellebore 'Dark and Handsome' and 'Champion'. It was a wonderful time to enjoy the garden.

May Garden

The month of May was very busy, with huge changes coming to the garden. With temperatures in the 70's towards the end of the month, I took the plunge and removed an old yew over the pool waterfall which had been losing its needles since the drought of last summer. The crew rebuilt the existing moss rock waterfall (originally constructed in 1996) and a mature Weeping Norway Spruce was carefully moved to its place with a skid steer with just two feet of space between the patio and pool. I held my breath as I watched until the tree was in its hole. Along with the main focal point, Variegated Upright Boxwood and Cherry Laurel 'Otto Luyken' were added with more additions to come later in the summer. Also to be seen this month were the blooms of Azalea, Weigela, Pulmonaria, Allium 'Globemaster', Salvia 'May Night', Ajuga, Nepeta, Baptisia, and Japanese Iris. 

June Garden

With June temperatures now in the comfortable mid-70's to low 80's, it was a wonderful time to enjoy the garden. Blooms this month included those of Rhododendron, Dogwood, Viburnum 'Summer Snowflake', Spirea, Roses, Nepeta, Daylily 'Stella D Oro' and Salvia. I took another plunge and replaced an aged Weeping Pussy Willow by the back patio with a Rhode Island Red Japanese Maple, which I had my sights on. This dwarf variety has slightly larger burgundy leaves and maintains a more rounded compact shape, reaching a mature height and width of just 6 feet over many years. It has made the perfect addition to admire as I sit having my morning tea! 

July Garden

There is a wonderful saying which describes me..."It's into the garden I go to lose my mind and find my soul." July is a perfect time for a stroll in the garden to find peace and tranquility during the heat of the summer. With more summer like temperatures in the 80's and low 90's, the garden brought an abundance of blooms including those of Hydrangea, St. John's Wort, Echinacea, Roses, Sedum, Salvia, Nepeta, Daylily, Asiatic Lily, Echibeckia, Hosta and Lamb's Ear. While we had a more spring like month of June, July did bring some heat, but overall it was a pleasure to be outdoors on most days.

August Garden

As the summer quickly passed by, the month of August brought an abundance of late summer blooms. The northeast had been fortunate weather-wise with temperatures mostly in the 80's with some "dog days of summer" thrown in, but there were frequent enough rain showers to keep the garden thriving. While a cooler spring had delayed the blooms of Crape Myrtle, the weather conditions had been especially ideal for Hydrangea, with some of the best blooms in years. Blooming were Hydrangea 'Limelight Prime', Hydrangea 'Let's Dance 'Big Band', Hydrangea 'Nikko Blue' and 'Tokyo Delight', Hydrangea 'Tardiva', Butterfly Bush 'Pugster Blue', Echinacea, Balloon Flower, Black Eyed Susan, Allium Millenium, Lillium 'Stargazer', and Daylily.

September Garden

The start of September brought in some of the hottest days of the summer, with temperatures climbing into the mid-90's with a heat index of 105 one day, while the rest of the month brought in more comfortable days in the 70's. The garden starts to slowly transition into fall mode this time of year with a stillness in the air and colors changing throughout the landscape. Finally, the deep pink blooms of Crape Myrtle 'Sioux' were finally here, along with the new blooms of Abelia 'Kaleidoscope' and continuing blooms of Butterfly Bush, Sedum, Echinacea, Liriope, Knock Out Rose and Hydrangea. With the perfect September temperatures, all that had to happen was for my husband to point out that perhaps the enormous grafted Blue Globe Spruce further down the patio needed to be replaced. Just as I thought the renovations were completed, the crew returned and planted a 'Twombly's Red Sentinel' Japanese Red Maple in its place. The renovations were now complete.

October Garden

Cooler temperatures arrived suddenly during October after a last hooray at the start of the month with temperatures in the 80's. Temperatures then settled into the 60's with clear blue skies and a slight chill in the air, as the surrounding landscape transitioned. As the blooms of Hydrangea faded, Montauk Daisy brought in new blooms along with the continuing blooms of Knock Out Roses, Black Eyed Susan, Butterfly Bush and Abelia 'Kaleidoscope', with plumes now on the Maiden Grass dancing in the breeze. 

November Garden

The month of November brought a more of a chill to the air with temperatures in the 50's and 60's and the landscape became a changing array of color with the changing foliage of maple trees, berries prominent on holly and plumes on grasses, while blooms of Knock Out Rose and Daylily refused to quit. The first silvery white flakes of snow occurred on November 28th. It lasted about fifteen minutes, but was the first snow for the season (technically) and signaled that winter was on its way.

December Garden

December brought milder than usual temperatures in the 50's on most days, with a rainy trend and chillier days in the 40's by the end of the month and the first frost, but still milder than I remember from years ago. It had been a wonderful gardening year with temperatures warm enough to extend the planting season, which got no complaints from this gardener. 

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden as we reminisce about days gone by and dream of a whole new year of gardening days ahead. You can view each month in detail by simply clicking on the hyperlink in the caption under each photo or go to "My Gardens" at the top navigation bar, where I share my garden diary since 2011! Be sure to stop by on the 1st. and 15th. of each month as I continue to share gardening tips, information and horticultural adventures! As the 2023 gardening season has come to a close, wishing you and yours a very happy and healthy new year and gardens that thrive in 2024!

Get Ready for Spring: Check out/purchase my Books!:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

and my newest addition,

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2024. All rights reserved.