Winter Snow and Care of Landscape Plants: Protect Them From Damage with These Tips

Winter Landscape Care

Welcome to This Month in the Garden! With winter here and the landscape buried beneath a blanket of snow, it is a good time to review some basic maintenance tips to protect and prevent possible damage to your plants.

THE BENEFITS OF SNOW: As the temperatures plunge below freezing, a layer of snow covering landscape plants actually acts as nature's insulator, keeping the soil under the snow at a more constant temperature and shielding the plant from excess winds. This protects tree and shrub roots, perennials and bulbs from constant freeze and thaw damage. As the snow melts, landscape plants are provided with a slow release of moisture, which is ideal for the roots, while small amounts of nitrogen captured from the atmosphere act as a natural fertilizer. Insulated soil also helps to protect microbes and earthworms over the harsh winter months.

FROST HEAVING: Without snow cover,  continuous freezing and thawing can push plant roots out of the ground causing damage and possible death. The snow controls rapid temperature changes and helps to keep the plant in place. Plants such as Heuchera (Coral Bells) and Hosta are very prone to this, so a layer of snow is beneficial.

Winter Landscape Care

SNOW WEIGHTED TREE BRANCHES: While it is tempting to go outside and start removing snow from weighted branches, it is also a good time to exercise caution. Under the snow-covered branches could also be a frozen layer of ice. Any manipulating of the frozen branches could result in easy breakage and permanent damage to your tree. A helpful tip is to very carefully dig snow from around trapped branches and allow them to spring back up on their own. Never shake branches with ice. It is best to let nature take its course and allow thawing to occur. The branches will gradually regain their shape as the ice melts preventing any harm to your landscaping. Further damage can easily be avoided by wrapping the branches together with arbor tie. The cloth tie cannot be seen from the outside, will prevent future damage from another snow.

BROKEN OR DAMAGED TREE BRANCHES: Before an approaching storm, try to walk outside and inspect trees and shrubs on your property for any broken or damaged branches. If you do spot a damaged branch, tie the two split halves together by wrapping them tightly together with arbor tie. Start by wrapping the two halves tightly together and continue wrapping above and below the crack for extra support. If caught in time, the cambium (or growing layer) of the plant will repair itself and fuse the two parts of the damaged branch together. I have personally saved split branches on holly, azalea and arborvitae using this technique and the plants have recovered beautifully. Identifying these issues now and tending to them prior to the snow can mean the survival of your plant.

Outdoor Container Planters

PROTECT OUTDOOR PLANTERS: Potted outdoor plants are much more prone to winter damage. Ensure that when creating your container garden, choose plants that are cold hardy one to two zones colder than your area, in case of a deep winter freeze. Within 1-2 days before a deep freeze is to occur, give your outdoor containers a good watering. When the temperatures drop to below freezing, the roots will be more insulated, and have a supply of moisture as the snow melts. You can also move the container into a non-heated garage or place it against a wall where it is protected from the wind. Another tip is to wrap the container in bubble wrap, burlap or a towel, which will act as an insulator to help hold in the heat around the roots until the deep freeze has past.

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden and have found these winter gardening tips to be useful. How has the winter been treating your garden? 

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For now, keep warm and as always... happy gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2026. All rights reserved.   

October Garden Chores - 10 Helpful Tips

October Garden Chores

Autumn has arrived in the northeast and there are several important chores to get accomplished in the garden before winter arrives and to give your landscape a good start for next spring. Here is a to-do list to help get your started.  These tips apply to USDA zone 7 but can be useful for other gardening zones as well.

(1)  Remove those weeds!  There is nothing more annoying than starting up a new gardening season and being inundated with weeds.  Removing weeds now in the fall will rid their seeds so they won’t be able to multiply over the winter season. Dandelions have long tap roots that can be difficult to remove, but I have found the perfect tool! This garden weeder to the left effortlessly removes the entire root.  It also works well with those nasty clover that have been widespread this season. Being proactive now will save time later.

(2)  Plant Spring Bulbs & Wildflowers: Now is the time to plant those spring flowering bulbs and wildflowers!   Some popular bulbs planted in the month of October are Tulips, Daffodils, Crocus, Allium and Hyacinths. Some northeastern wildflowers include Rudbeckia, Coneflower, Cornflower and Poppies.  For self-sowing perennials, biennials and annuals leave the seed heads on existing plants so they can drop to the ground and re-seed for next spring.

(3)  Tree & Shrub Protection: Remove any diseased or dead branches from trees and shrubs to prevent winter damage.  Also remove water sprouts and sucker growth. 

(4) Insect Control: Now is the time to apply dormant oil onto trees and shrubs for winter protection from insects.  Insects such as scale and aphids lay their eggs in September which overwinter causing early infestations in spring.  Dormant oil is prepared to be safe for beneficial insects, birds, mammals and humans and smothers out harmful insect larvae before they hatch. Certain plants are sensitive to dormant oil so be sure to read all specifications carefully.

(5)  Clean Up Garden Beds: Remove infected leaves from perennials and herbaceous shrubs. Faded peony, roses, hosta, daylily and coneflower leaves are very susceptible to fungal infections and powdery mildew.  Once the foliage has died back for the season cut it completely back to the ground and make sure the ground is clean around the plant.  Cover with a fine layer of mulch after clean-up to protect the roots and dispose of the infected leaves into the trash, not the compost pile.

(6)  Prune Perennials:  Prune certain perennials to a couple of inches above the ground once they are done blooming for the season. Perennials that benefit from winter pruning include salvia, coreopsis, sedum, gaillardia, nepeta and daylily.  Liriope is somewhat sensitive to cold and can be pruned half way but not all the way down.  Some perennials are very cold sensitive such as Heuchera (coral bells), astilbe, liatris, lavender, perovskia (russian sage) and lupine are best to be left until early spring.

(7)  Clean up Leaves: At the end of the month remove leaves from the lawn and garden. Leaves left over winter can harbor fungal disease and damage your lawn or perennials.  Either add your leaves to a compost area or shred them.  A fine layer of shredded leaves can add valuable organic matter to your garden and can be used as mulch protection for your plants.

(8) Dig Up Tender Bulbs: Dig up tender bulbs such as gladiolus, canna lily and dahlias that do not survive the winter at the end of the month (before frost) and store them in a cool dry place such as a crawl space or garage in either a paper bag or in a container of vermiculite.

(9) Mulch Garden Beds:  Check and apply mulch to your gardens around perennials and shrubs in areas where the temperatures fall below freezing for long periods of time. The mulch serves as insulation for the plants and provides some important protection during winter freezes and thaws and also helps to prevent moisture loss.

(10) Continue Watering: Continue to water evergreens, trees and shrubs until freeze warnings (end of October-beginning of November). It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health. Evergreens are especially prone to desiccation and winter burn caused by drying winds and lack of moisture during the cold season.

Have you started your fall garden chores?  I hope you find the above October gardening tips to be helpful.

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2014. All rights reserved

Repairing Storm Damaged Trees: Some Helpful Tips

Storm Damaged Branch on Weeping Japanese Maple

 Hurricanes such as the recent Hurricane Sandy have caused extensive damage to landscape trees along the northeastern coastline.  This Weeping Japanese Maple was a victim to the gale force winds and has suffered major damage to one of its limbs.  Every year extensive damage can occur to tree branches from factors such as hurricanes, ice storms and lightning. If you have experienced similar damage here are a few tips for repairing weakened trees that I hope you find useful.

Storm Damage to Tree Bark

Torn and Peeled Bark:  Repairing torn and peeled bark on your damaged trees in a timely manner can help to preserve their vitality. To remove crevices for moisture accumulation or hiding places for insects use a sharp chisel or knife to smooth the ragged edges where the bark has been torn (see diagram).  Clean ragged wounds and smooth out the area as much as possible so that healing can start.  If possible try to form an elliptical shape without cutting too deeply.  The underlying greenish inner bark (cambium layer) should start the repair process.  If the damaged area is less than twenty five percent of the circumference of the branch the tree should heal over time with no permanent damage. Anything more could be too much and could lead to eventual removal of the limb.  Avoid the usage of any wound sealants or coatings.  There has been recent controversy about the use of wound sealants over the past few years.  Recent studies have shown that sealants may not help in speeding up the healing process but may actually hinder it.  Also as the sealant breaks down possible crevices may form allowing moisture to accumulate.   This can lead to possible fungal infection and further damage to the tree.

U.S. Department Of Agriculture

Damage to Branches:   If the tree branch is severely damaged beyond repair it is best to remove it completely.  First prune smaller branches (less than 3 inches) where they meet larger ones using clean cuts with loppers or larger branches with a saw or chain saw.   Use the three cut method first making an undercut 12- 18 inches from the main stem to relieve some of the pressure of the branch.  Then make two more cuts, one closer to the  main branch (2-3 inches away) then a final smooth flush cut where the branch meets the collar as shown in the diagram.  The tree will form a protective callus tissue and heal itself.

Uprooted Trees:  Smaller trees can be saved if one third to one half of their root system is still in the ground.  Remove some of the soil around the root mass and push upright using several helpers or equipment.  Fill in the soil and cable the tree in place using two to three guide wires and anchors into the soil.  Water the tree to keep it in place and remove air pockets.  It is usual to keep the cables on for one year then remove them as the tree grows.  A spring feeding can help the tree to regain strength and encourage new growth.

Following these practices can allow your tree to heal and help to ensure the extended lifetime of your landscape plants.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2012. All rights reserved.

 

 

 

When to Prune Flowering Trees & Shrubs

Crape Myrtle 'Muskogee'

When is the proper time of pruning for flowering trees and shrubs? Part of the answer depends on whether the time of flowering is in the early spring or later in the season. As a general rule of thumb, prune flowering trees and shrubs immediately after flowering. 

Pruning correctly is important in maintaining the health and vigor of your landscape plants. Proper pruning helps to maintain the shape and form of your plants, helps to remove any unwanted growth, allows for the removal of any diseased or broken branches and helps to stimulate new growth and better flowering.   Not all trees and shrubs require regular pruning but if implemented it should be done correctly and at the right time of year (See Listing Below).

Pink Flowering Dogwood

Early spring bloomers formed their buds in early fall the season before on old wood. Pruning these plants before flowering in spring will result in cutting off the buds and decreased bloom.  Varieties of trees and shrubs that bloom earlier in the season (prior to the end of June) should be pruned immediately after flowering in late spring/summer. These plants include:  Flowering Dogwood, Forthysia, Flowering Crabapple, Flowering Cherry, Flowering Plum, Vibernum, Weigela, Magnolia, Wisteria, Mock Orange, Lilac, Rhododendron, Azalea and Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla).

Trees and shrubs that flower after the end of June develop their buds on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter to early spring (late March-early April). During this time the trees are dormant and it is easier to see before new growth starts.  Since these varieties form buds on the new wood of the season they can be pruned before buds set.   Examples of flowering shrubs that should be pruned while still dormant include:  Crape Myrtle, Bradford Pear, Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Knock Out Roses, Stewartia  Abelia, Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) and some varieties of Hydrangea such as Peegee (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’) and Endless Summer Hydrangea macrophylla 'Bailmer').  'Annabelle' also blooms on new wood and can be pruned in early spring.

Often hardwood trees will sprout straight vertical branches from the base of the plant or roots called "suckers" or "water sprouts" that can interfere with the growth of other parts of the tree.  I often find it to be much easier to prune off these shoots while the tree is still dormant and the framework of the tree is visible.  This procedure is best done in late winter/early spring (late March).   If done later than November or December, pruning could spark the  tree to develop new growth that would not have enough time to "harden off" before winter.   Crape Myrtles and Magnolias are two trees that do not require much routine pruning but frequently send up "water sprouts".  Even though you may be tempted to prune these growths in late fall, resist the temptation and wait until late winter/early spring when it is healthier for the tree.

Rhododendron

PRUNE IN LATE SPRING (After Bloom):

Flowering Dogwood
Forthysia
Flowering Crabapple
Flowering Cherry
Thundercloud Flowering Plum
Vibernum
Weigela
Magnolia
Wisteria
Mock Orange
Lilac
Rhododendron
Azalea

PRUNE IN SUMMER (After Bloom):

Hydrangea 'Nikko Blue'

Bigleaf Hydrangea 'Nikko Blue'
Miniature Hydrangea 'Pia'

Hydrangea 'Peegee'

PRUNE IN LATE WINTER /EARLY SPRING (While Dormant):

Crape Myrtle
Bradford or Cleveland Select Pear
Butterfly Bush
Knock Out Roses
Stewartia
Abelia
Spirea (except 'Bridal Wreath')
'Peegee' Hydrangea
'Endless Summer ' Hydrangea
'Annabelle' Hydrangea



Flowering trees and shrubs are a wonderful asset to have in your garden and with proper maintenance they will continue to add years of bloom and color to your landscape.

As Always...Happy Gardening!


Author: Lee @ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved.




Fall and Winter Gardening: Some Helpful Tips

As winter approaches there are some basic gardening tips that can be followed to ensure the health and vitality of your landscape plants.  I have discussed each of these separately in past articles and have decided to put them all into one list for easier reference. 

Watering During Fall & Winter: It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants. Once the ground freezes it is difficult for water to percolate down to the roots.  Deciduous trees go dormant but evergreens remain somewhat active and need moisture to the roots.  Water as much as possible before the ground freezes, especially if you have new plantings.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage and drying.

Pruning Ornamental Grasses: Here's a helpful tip for pruning your ornamental grasses such as 'Miscanthus sinensis' Maiden Grass or Dwarf Fountain Grass 'Hameln'. Winter cold can harm the center of grasses causing them to "hollow out". It is best to cut your grasses back in late March to early April in order to protect the roots. If your grasses become a bit unruly by the end of the fall then just cut back the plumes and leave the rest for early spring. Another trick is to wrap a bungee cord about half way up around the center and let the grasses drape over keeping them upright and in place. Ornamental grasses can add much interest to the winter landscape and be enjoyed all winter long. For more information visit: Fall-Garden-Maintenance-Pruning-&-Dividing-Ornamental-Grasses-and-Perennials

Anti-Desiccant Spray:  When the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees it is time to apply an anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese skimmia, leucothoe, aucuba and boxwood. These plants can be subject to severe winter burn due to water loss from the leaves by transpiration. Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.) If there is a prolonged thaw in mid-winter it may be time to re-apply anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens, especially if there are more prolonged freezing temperatures on the way. For more detailed information go to: Winterizing-Evergreens-Anti-Desiccant-Spray

Frost Heaving:  In freezing temperatures soil around your plants may be subject to frost heaving. This is when ice forms underneath the soil and expands upwards from the ground causing plants such as perennials to push upwards exposing the crown. Heuchera (Coral Bells) and Liriope are especially prone to this type of damage. As a preventive measure apply mulch finishing to your garden beds. To remedy, slightly tap the soil back down, and brush the mulch back around the exposed crown of the plant.

Ice Damage to Branches:  As winter progresses there is an increased threat of snow and ice build up on the branches of trees and shrubs in the landscape. If snow piles up on your evergreens try to carefully brush it away removing the excess weight from the branches. If the snow does not remove easily do not shake the branches. This can cause breakage and damage. If the tree or shrub is covered with ice permit nature to take its course and allow the ice to melt naturally. If your landscape does suffer any damage from winter storms it is recommended to remove any broken limbs to avoid stress and disease to the plant. This can be done when the weather allows.

I am hoping that you find these tips to be helpful. Gardening does continue throughout fall and winter and some simple preparation can go a long way especially in areas where winters are harsh.  I for one have found these techniques to be very worthwhile and productive over the years. For further reading you can also visit Winter Gardening:  12 Helpful Tips.
 
                                               As Always...Happy Gardening!


Author:Lee@ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved

Winter Burn on Blue Atlas Cedar and Other Evergreens

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar

Some winters have been known to be unusually harsh on the landscape.  I for one have been getting a lot of questions regarding winter burn on weeping and upright Blue Atlas Cedar as well as on Cryptomeria and Golden Oriental Spruce.  The narrow needles on these evergreens can be prone to dehydration due to the drying effect of winter winds that can cause the needles to appear brown.  The intense snow and reflection of rays from the sun can also magnify this effect. 

Winter Burn on Blue Atlas Cedar

This browning of the needles or "winter burn" should correct itself once the weather starts to warm and water is able to get to the cells of the plant and once again activate the chlorophyll within.  If the tree is well established it should most likely fully recover and start to push out new growth as the temperatures rise.  If the tree looks severely damaged then getting water to the roots and deep root feeding in early spring are recommended to help the plant to recover.  Deep root feeding is a controlled fertilization process that supplies immediate beneficial nutrients directly to the root system to give it a boost. There is also a product on the market called PHC BioPak Plus which contains micro nutrients and beneficial bacteria to help the roots to absorb nutrients and help plants in stress.

Cryptomeria

Just an added note that the needles of Cryptomeria japonica do turn a bronze color in winter which is perfectly normal.  I have found that with the severe weather there has also been an increased number of fallen branches and browning of needles and branches; however, the winter winds seem to be nature's way of giving the trees a good cleaning out.   In the spring sunlight will be able to reach the inner portion of these evergreens and cause the trees to push out new growth.  

Skylands Oriental Spruce

There may be some winter burn and dead branches on your Oriental Spruce as well from the winter's winds and snow.  Spring is the best time to cut out any dead branches and the browned needles should recover once water moves back into the cells and chlorophyll causes the plant to re-gain its color. 

It is not recommended to spray the above-mentioned trees with anti-desiccant because it has been known to change the beautiful color of these trees. When in doubt always ask a tree professional.

Many evergreens do go through a natural shed of their inner needles approximately every three years in order to make room for new growth.  Once the harshness of the winter winds diminish and spring arrives new growth will eventually push out and restore the natural beauty of your evergreens.

Additional Reading:  Winterizing Evergreens Anti-Desiccant Spray

                                              

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Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2011. All rights reserved

Winterizing Evergreens-Anti-Desiccant Spray

Have you ever noticed scorched and browned foliage on certain broad-leaved evergreens after winter? Winter cold and winds can be harsh on your landscape. Evergreen trees and shrubs maintain foliage throughout the winter months where they continue to lose moisture. With winter temperature fluctuations, moisture loss and the ground still frozen, transpiration occurs from the needles and leaves increasing water demand. If the roots cannot keep up with these demands the needles and leaves start to turn brown and die.  Winter burn or desiccation is a dehydration of the plant due to water loss from the leaves through transpiration. This is caused by long dry periods of cold and thaw along with winter winds. Some broad-leaved evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese Skimmia, Osmanthus (False Holly), Leucothoe, Aucuba and Boxwood are even more susceptible to winter drying and long-term damage.  An easy way of avoiding winter damage to plants is to apply an anti-desiccant spray to the upper and lower parts of the foliage before the temperatures drop below freezing or during a winter thaw.

PLANTS PRONE TO WINTER BURN: broad-leaved evergreens such as Boxwood, Holly (examples include: Oakleaf Holly, Nellie Stevens Holly, Sky Pencil Holly, Hoogendorn, Northern Beauty, Steeds and other compact Holly), rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese Skimmia, Osmanthus, Leucothoe, Aucuba, Southern Magnolia, Euonymus and Japanese Andromeda.

WHEN TO APPLY: Apply anti-desiccant when the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees (Fall-late October/mid-November here in zone 7). Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.) Anti-desiccants are organic and break down under heat and light so it is recommended to spray again in late winter if there is a prolonged winter thaw. The newer brands of anti-desiccant such as Wilt Stop and Transfilm are produced to last throughout winter with good coverage.

DANGERS: Be sure to read all directions on the label since anti-desiccants can cause photo toxicity on some narrow needled evergreens such as Arborvitae, Hinoki Cypress and Spruce that could cause more harm than winter burn.  Spraying in freezing temperatures will do harm to the plant.  Do not spray in freezing temperatures and allow time to dry before temperatures drop below 32^oF or 0^oC.

HOW OFTEN DOES IT NEED TO BE APPLIED: Sudden warm spells can trigger your evergreens to open their pores allowing for more water loss. If there is a winter thaw part way through the season it is recommended to re-spray your plants but only if the temperatures are to remain above freezing for at least 24 hours.

WHERE DO I PURCHASE ANTI-DESICCANT?: The most commonly used brands of anti-desiccant are Wilt-Stop and Transfilm that can be found in nurseries, garden centers or ordered online. Ask your landscape professional for more information.

HOW IT WORKS: Anti-desiccant spray is organic and biodegradable. It adds a protective waxy coating to the tops and undersides of the leaves of broad-leaved evergreens to help slow the process of transpiration which causes water loss and winter damage.

Looking for some gardening help and inspiration? Check out my Author Page & Books!

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2023. All rights reserved. 

Garden Maintenance: General Tree & Shrub Care Information

PRUNING EVERGREENS:
Most evergreens can be pruned at any time of year except during severe heat and drought or within a month before the first frost.   Ideally the best time to prune evergreens is believed to be in March (late winter or early spring) before new growth starts. This also eliminates any winter burn that can occur during especially cold weather and gives the evergreen a good start for Spring.  Your flowering evergreens are an exception to this rule and should not be pruned until after blooming (late spring).  Evergreens such as pine, spruce and fir produce their new yearly growth in shoots called "candles".  In order to encourage more compact growth cut the tips of the candles back half way before the needles unfold.   No plant is completely maintenance free so keep your evergreens trimmed to their desired size. This will also keep them full and healthy and prevent thinning out. NOTE: Evergreens will shed their needles or foliage in the Fall/Spring to allow for new growth. If any branches appear brown or dead after planting or after winter, trim them off and allow the plant to rejuvenate.


Cherry Laurel

WINTER CARE: BROAD LEAVED EVERGREENS:   Some Broad-Leaved Evergreens such as Cherry, Skip or Mountain Laurel, Japanese Aucuba, Leucothoe, Skimmia, Boxwood, Holly and Rhododendron can be subject to winter burn from dehydration due to water loss in the case of a cold and dry winter. Care should be taken in the usage of an anti-desiccant such as ‘Wilt-Pruf” Spray which should be applied two to three times during the winter months throughout periods of cold and thaw.  There is also a new product on the market which lasts for three months with only one application.  Ask your landscape professional for more information.

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES & SHRUBS:   As a general rule prune flowering trees, shrubs and evergreens after the bloom.  Shrubs including Azalea, Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Cherry Laurel, Forsythia, Mockorange, Magnolia and Flowering Crabapple can be pruned in late Spring after bloom.  Flowering shrubs such as hydrangea bloom on the last years growth and will not bloom if cut back in Spring. There are some newer varieties of hydrangea such as the 'Endless Summer' Hydrangea which blooms on new and old wood and 'All Summer Beauty' which blooms on the new season's wood that can be pruned at any time and are a welcome addition to the garden.  Shrubs such as Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) and Barberry 'Royal Burgundy' or 'Rosy Glow' improve bloom and fullness when cut back in late winter-early spring (March) before they get their leaves in Spring. Renovate Lilac in winter and prune for shape after flowering in Spring. Prune roses in Spring to remove winter damage before new growth starts.    Buddlea (Butterfly Bush) should be pruned back in late winter-early spring while dormant for best bloom.

MOVING TREES: Trim (or move) deciduous trees in Fall after leaves have fallen and tree is dormant. Evergreens can be moved in either Spring or Fall and must be keep well watered.

PERENNIALS: Deadhead perennials such as salvia though out summer for continuous repeat blooms. In Fall perennials should be allowed to die back then remove any unwanted foliage. Pruning back perennials can be done in either late Fall or early Spring (March) before new growth appears but it is recommended in the Fall in order to prevent disease. Note: There are some perennials such as liriope (lillyturf) and coral bells (Heuchera) that can provide nice winter interest and benefit from pruning in Spring.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES: Grasses should be cut back in late March before new growth appears. Leaving the grass during the winter provides nice interest to the garden and protects the root system as well.

FERTILIZING: Feed plants in Spring and Late Summer. Do not apply a full dose if feeding in the Fall apply a half dose for root feeding only. For new plantings allow the plantings to become established then apply a slow release organic fertilizer or apply a “starter” formula when planting. For established plants there are several products on the market but be careful not to buy a concentrated product that will burn the roots. A slow release or organic fertilizer such as Holly Tone is recommended.


WATERING:  As a general rule it is best to water less frequently and deep rather than everyday and shallow.  Water needs to get down to the roots of plants so it is recommended that trees, shrubs and perennials are watered every two to three days for approximately 40 minutes per area during Spring and Fall.  In cases of severe heat in summer months watering may be required more frequently.   Lawn areas in shade may require less watering and annuals may require daily watering at less time.  Monitor your plants frequently to adjust their watering accordingly.  It is also important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage.

LAWN CARE: Sod lawns can be planted anytime of year, preferably spring or fall. Avoid planting in extreme conditions of heat or cold and ensure proper irrigation to get your lawn established.  Seed lawns are best planted in the Fall (ideally between August 15 and October 15 here in zone 7) when temperatures are in the 60's and 70's.  Core Aeration and over-seeding are best done in the Fall to help rejuvenate a lawn and give it a healthy start for the following season. Your lawn should also have a regular maintenance program to keep it at its best. Ask your professional. 


INSECT CONTROL: Periodically check your plants for insect or fungal damage and treat if needed. It is advised to use a regular insect control maintenance program to keep your plantings healthy.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010. All Rights Reserved