Spring Pruning Guide: When & What to Prune

This Month in the Garden

As the weather warms up and new growth begins to emerge, early spring is an ideal time to prune many shrubs and perennials. Pruning helps shape plants, encourage healthy growth, and improve flowering and foliage. However, timing is key—some plants benefit from spring pruning, while others should be left alone until later in the season. When pruning, use clean, sharp tools to make precise cuts and prevent disease spread. Prune on a dry day to minimize disease risk, and avoid pruning too late once new growth has started to emerge, especially for plants that bloom on new wood.

Here’s a guide to common trees, shrubs and perennials that should be pruned now in spring for their best performance. When in doubt, always research specific plant needs before pruning, since some plants require light shaping, while others benefit from hard rejuvenation pruning.

TREES & SHRUBS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia): Crape Myrtle bloom later in summer on the new wood of the season and can be pruned in late winter-early spring before new growth occurs. Avoid harsh cutting (often referred to as Crape Murder) and focus on removing only damaged or crossing branches or sucker growth emerging from the bottom of the plant. A light pruning is recommended to reduce overall height, improve shape and encourage stronger growth.

Crape Myrtle 'Sioux'

Abelia:  Trim back up to one-third of the plant, focusing on removing dead or weak branches. Abelias bloom on new wood, so pruning now will not reduce flowering and make a more compact plant. Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches and long shoots to encourage vigorous new growth and abundant blooms in summer.

Abelia 'Kaliedoscope'

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia 'davidii'): blooms on the new wood of the season and should be pruned in late winter/early spring to encourage new growth. Prune branches when you see green buds appearing and before new growth starts to approximately 12-24 inches from the ground. Buddleia highly benefits from a severe pruning.  "Hard" pruning promotes many new arching branches with larger flowers than if the plant had not been pruned.  

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

Roses:  Cut back dead, diseased or weak canes, removing about a third of the plant. Shape as needed and trim just above outward-facing buds. Hybrid teas, floribundas, and grandifloras benefit from a hard prune, while climbing roses need selective thinning. Pruning out old woody stems encourages new growth.

Knock Out Rose

Spirea: Pruning Spirea in spring encourages a fuller, compact and healthier plant with more abundant blooms. If you have summer-blooming Spirea (like Spiraea japonica), cut back by about one-third in early spring before new growth emerges. Spring-blooming varieties (like Spiraea vanhouttei) should be pruned after flowering.

Spirea japonica

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub): Trim to about 6–12 inches tall before new growth emerges. Since Caryopteris blooms on new wood, a hard prune leads to better flowering. Bluebeard Shrub benefits from pruning similar to Spirea, creating studier dense growth and a healthier more compact plant.

Caryopteris (Bluebeard Shrub)

Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata & Hydrangea arborescens):  Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) and smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) bloom on new wood, and can be pruned now by cutting back no more than one-third of their height. These varieties include but are not limited to Hydrangea 'Tardiva',  'Endless Summer', Let's Dance 'Big Band', 'PeeGee', and 'Limelight'. Prune only as needed and avoid over pruning as it can lead to loss of blooms as the plant puts all of its energy into new growth. Avoid pruning bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) and Climbing Hydrangea in spring, as they bloom on old wood. For Hydrangea that bloom on old wood, it is alright to prune off only the faded blooms above where the buds appear and to thin out overcrowded and dead branches to improve air circulation and light penetration. 

Panicle Hydrangea

PERENNIALS TO PRUNE IN SPRING:

Hellebore (Lenten Rose): It is best to remove winter burned and tattered foliage from Hellebores in late winter-early spring to clean up the plant, allow blooms to be seen. New growth will start to appear once the temperatures warm. 

Hellebore (Lenten Rose)

Lily Turf (Liriope muscari & Liriope spicata): Use shears to cut back all foliage to about 2–3 inches tall before new growth appears in early spring. This practice refreshes the plant and removes tattered foliage.

Liriope (Lilyturf)

Ornamental Grasses (Miscanthus, Pennisetum, Panicum): Cut back to about 4–6 inches from the ground before new growth begins to clear out dead foliage and encourages new shoots. If you wait too long, new shoots will be difficult to avoid cutting.

Ornamental Grasses

PLANTS TO AVOID PRUNING IN SPRING:  

Some trees and shrubs bloom on old wood and should not be pruned in spring. Instead, wait until after they flower. These include but are not limited to Lilac (Syringa), Forsythia, Eastern Redbud, Flowering Dogwood, Kwanzan Cherry, Ornamental Plum, Azaleas and Rhododendrons, Weigela, Viburnum, Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla), Climbing Hydrangea and Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Note: Be very careful when pruning Hydrangea as many varieties produce their blooms on old wood from the previous season. 

As a rule of thumb, any tree or shrub that blooms in spring or early summer should not be pruned until after bloom. 

Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden! By pruning your trees, shrubs and perennials at the right time, you will set them up for a season of lush, healthy growth and abundant blooms. 

Visit my Author Page/Purchase My Books:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations  

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

The Houseplant Guide: How to Easily Select & Maintain Indoor Plants

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2025. All rights reserved. 

Late Summer Gardening Chores and Maintenance

Welcome to This Month in the Garden!

As the days of summer begin to wane, late summer is a critical time for gardeners to prepare their spaces for the transition into fall. While the days are still warm, the subtle changes in light and temperature signal that it’s time to focus on garden maintenance. Here's a guide to essential late summer gardening chores to keep your garden healthy and vibrant as the seasons change.

Mophead Hydrangea

Deadheading and Pruning: Late summer is the perfect time to deadhead flowering plants. By removing spent flowers, you encourage perennials like salvia, daylilies, daisies, and zinnias to produce more blooms and extend their flowering period. Additionally, pruning back overgrown shrubs and perennials not only tidies up your garden but also promotes healthier growth. Be cautious with late pruning, though, as cutting too much can stimulate new growth that might not have time to harden off before the first frost. Be careful with pruning hydrangea as not to jeopardize next year's blooms. Only remove dead wood from the center of the plant and avoid cutting stems, as buds could already be forming on previous growth. The spent blooms can be removed, or enjoyed over the winter, and removed the following spring. If you desire deadheading, remove the dried flower head by cutting the stem just below it and just above the next set of leaves at an angle. The seed heads of perennials such as Echinacea (Coneflower) are a food source enjoyed by birds such as American Goldfinch and can also serve as interest until cutting back the plant later in fall. 

Echinacea (Coneflower)

Also, consider dividing and transplanting spring blooming perennials such as Daylilies and Iris that have outgrown their space. Dig up the parent plant with a spade and gently lift it above the ground. Remove any loose dirt from around the roots and separate the plant into smaller sections with a sharp clean spade or by gently pulling apart by hand. Each division should have three to five vigorous shoots and a decent sized rooting system. Dig the hole slightly larger than the plant, place level with the surrounding soil and maintain watering throughout the remainder of the season. Now is an excellent time as the temperatures cool and the timing allows for roots to establish before the first evenings of frost set in. A general rule of thumb is to divide spring blooming perennials in the late summer or early fall, and to divide late summer-fall blooming perennials in early springtime when new growth is emerging.

Daylily 'Stella D Oro' Late Summer

Watering: Even though temperatures may be slightly cooler, your garden still needs consistent watering. Late summer drought can stress plants, making them more susceptible to diseases and pests. Deep watering is essential to ensure roots remain hydrated. Continue watering until the first signs of frost are in the forecast.

Hydrangea Limelight Prime

Weeding: Weeds are notorious for thriving in late summer, often competing with your plants for nutrients and water. Regular weeding is crucial during this period to prevent them from going to seed and spreading further. Consider pulling weeds after a rain when the soil is moist, making the task easier.

Knock Out Rose 'Radrazz'

Pest and Disease Management & Feeding: Late summer can bring a host of pests and diseases that target weakened or stressed plants. Inspect your garden regularly for signs of trouble, such as yellowing leaves, holes in foliage, or powdery mildew. Depending on the issue, you may need to remove affected plants, apply organic pest control methods, or consider natural remedies like neem oil or insecticidal soaps. By late summer, many plants may have exhausted the nutrients in the soil. Fertilize your garden with a balanced organic fertilizer to give your plants a much-needed nutrient boost. Focus on perennials, shrubs, and late-blooming flowers that will benefit from the extra nourishment as they prepare for the colder months ahead. Keep enjoying the garden as roses, some species of hydrangea and rejuvenated perennials continue to shine, while later flowering perennials including Montauk Daisy, Mums and Asters prepare to display their late summer-fall blooms!

Montauk Daisy

Harvesting, Planting & Composting: Late summer is harvest time for many vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Be sure to pick produce as soon as it ripens to encourage continued production. At the same time, it’s an excellent opportunity to plant cool-season crops like kale, spinach, and radishes, which can thrive in the cooler temperatures of early fall. With an abundance of garden waste, late summer is a prime time to enhance your compost pile. Add grass clippings, pulled weeds (avoiding those with seeds), and spent annuals to your compost. Turn the pile regularly to speed up decomposition, ensuring you’ll have rich compost ready for next spring.

Keep Enjoying the Garden!

Late summer gardening is all about balance and nurturing your plants through the remaining warm days while preparing them for the cooler months ahead. By staying on top of these chores, you can keep your garden looking beautiful and healthy, setting the stage for a successful transition into fall. Whether you're deadheading blooms, mulching, or planting fall crops, the effort you put in now will pay off as your garden continues to flourish.

I hope you enjoyed This Month in the Garden. Be sure to stop by on the 1st. and 15th. of each month as I continue to share gardening tips, information and horticultural adventures! 

 Plan your Garden with my Books! 

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening 

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener 

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

"As Always...Happy Gardening!" 

Author: Lee @A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2010-2024. All rights reserved. 

This Month in the Garden: Summer Gardening Tip-Rejuvenation of Hemerocallis (Daylily)

Rejuvenating Daylily

Daylilies are a popular addition to the garden for lasting color and will bloom for a very long time if cared for properly. Most daylilies prefer a humus, well-drained soil in full sun but will tolerate partial shade, allowing for some flexibility when planting. There are over 80,000 cultivars of daylily with a broad range of cold hardiness from USDA zones 1-11, making them one of the most adaptable landscape plants. Out of all the daylilies, my favorite for longest bloom time is Hemerocallis 'Stella D Oro'. It is known to have one of the longest bloom times lasting from late spring through fall with little maintenance. Blooms can be extended through October with pruning to remove spent foliage. 

Hemerocallis Stella D Oro' Daylily

PARTIAL REJUVENATION: In mid-summer, when your daylilies are completing their first major bloom and producing seeds, remove faded flowers and seed stalks so that the plant's energy goes back into producing new blooms. Clean up the appearance of the plant by removing any browned foliage, which usually can be seen around the base of the plant. 

Hemerocallis Stella D Oro' Daylily

FULL REJUVENATION: When your daylilies are at the end of their bloom in late summer and foliage is starting to turn a yellow-brown, cut them back half way to the ground and remove any additional yellowed-browned foliage. Another option is to put on a pair of gardening gloves and remove all spent foliage that comes out easily. This practice will totally clean up the plant, leaving any new growth remaining. This will rejuvenate the plant giving you new lush green foliage and even more blooms throughout September and into October. (Works best with Stella D Oro Daylily).

Hemerocallis 'Sammy Russell'

FALL DIVISION: Division of daylily is also best in early fall for the health of your plants. Simply dig deeply around the perimeter of the plant and gently lift the entire clump out of the ground. Use a sharp spade to divide the plant into parts and plant each section into a hole twice the size of the root ball. Be sure to get at least three or more strong shoots and a good root ball around the plant. Cut the foliage back halfway and back fill with soil around the plant. It is recommended to add mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots. Water thoroughly and keep the plant well watered until the roots become established. At the end of the season once the fronds have turned completely brown remove all foliage to the ground to prevent fungal disease over the winter. Other plants that benefit from fall division are salvia, iris, peony, hosta, goldenrod, monardia (beebalm), nepeta, coreopsis and sedum. 

Hemerocallis 'Rosy Returns'

Looking for more gardening tips and design ideas? You may be interested in my books. Click on the links below for more information! 

Visit my Author Page/Purchase My Books:

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9 
Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!

~As Always...Happy Gardening!~

Author: Lee@A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved.

October Garden Chores - 10 Helpful Tips

October Garden Chores

Autumn has arrived in the northeast and there are several important chores to get accomplished in the garden before winter arrives and to give your landscape a good start for next spring. Here is a to-do list to help get your started.  These tips apply to USDA zone 7 but can be useful for other gardening zones as well.

(1)  Remove those weeds!  There is nothing more annoying than starting up a new gardening season and being inundated with weeds.  Removing weeds now in the fall will rid their seeds so they won’t be able to multiply over the winter season. Dandelions have long tap roots that can be difficult to remove, but I have found the perfect tool! This garden weeder to the left effortlessly removes the entire root.  It also works well with those nasty clover that have been widespread this season. Being proactive now will save time later.

(2)  Plant Spring Bulbs & Wildflowers: Now is the time to plant those spring flowering bulbs and wildflowers!   Some popular bulbs planted in the month of October are Tulips, Daffodils, Crocus, Allium and Hyacinths. Some northeastern wildflowers include Rudbeckia, Coneflower, Cornflower and Poppies.  For self-sowing perennials, biennials and annuals leave the seed heads on existing plants so they can drop to the ground and re-seed for next spring.

(3)  Tree & Shrub Protection: Remove any diseased or dead branches from trees and shrubs to prevent winter damage.  Also remove water sprouts and sucker growth. 

(4) Insect Control: Now is the time to apply dormant oil onto trees and shrubs for winter protection from insects.  Insects such as scale and aphids lay their eggs in September which overwinter causing early infestations in spring.  Dormant oil is prepared to be safe for beneficial insects, birds, mammals and humans and smothers out harmful insect larvae before they hatch. Certain plants are sensitive to dormant oil so be sure to read all specifications carefully.

(5)  Clean Up Garden Beds: Remove infected leaves from perennials and herbaceous shrubs. Faded peony, roses, hosta, daylily and coneflower leaves are very susceptible to fungal infections and powdery mildew.  Once the foliage has died back for the season cut it completely back to the ground and make sure the ground is clean around the plant.  Cover with a fine layer of mulch after clean-up to protect the roots and dispose of the infected leaves into the trash, not the compost pile.

(6)  Prune Perennials:  Prune certain perennials to a couple of inches above the ground once they are done blooming for the season. Perennials that benefit from winter pruning include salvia, coreopsis, sedum, gaillardia, nepeta and daylily.  Liriope is somewhat sensitive to cold and can be pruned half way but not all the way down.  Some perennials are very cold sensitive such as Heuchera (coral bells), astilbe, liatris, lavender, perovskia (russian sage) and lupine are best to be left until early spring.

(7)  Clean up Leaves: At the end of the month remove leaves from the lawn and garden. Leaves left over winter can harbor fungal disease and damage your lawn or perennials.  Either add your leaves to a compost area or shred them.  A fine layer of shredded leaves can add valuable organic matter to your garden and can be used as mulch protection for your plants.

(8) Dig Up Tender Bulbs: Dig up tender bulbs such as gladiolus, canna lily and dahlias that do not survive the winter at the end of the month (before frost) and store them in a cool dry place such as a crawl space or garage in either a paper bag or in a container of vermiculite.

(9) Mulch Garden Beds:  Check and apply mulch to your gardens around perennials and shrubs in areas where the temperatures fall below freezing for long periods of time. The mulch serves as insulation for the plants and provides some important protection during winter freezes and thaws and also helps to prevent moisture loss.

(10) Continue Watering: Continue to water evergreens, trees and shrubs until freeze warnings (end of October-beginning of November). It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health. Evergreens are especially prone to desiccation and winter burn caused by drying winds and lack of moisture during the cold season.

Have you started your fall garden chores?  I hope you find the above October gardening tips to be helpful.

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2014. All rights reserved

Late Summer Gardening: Revitalize your Landscape

August is the perfect time to revitalize your summer garden.  Perennials such as daylily, nepeta, astilbe and salvia can be cut back to revitalize and extend their bloom season.  Here are some easy tips to give your garden a face lift.  When your salvia and nepeta start looking less than desirable, deadhead by pinching back any spent blooms so that the next set of blooms can gain strength and form.  In late summer (end of July/Early August) cut back "worn out" perennials several inches, removing all the dead stalks and spent growth, making the appearance of the plant resemble the first growth of spring.   The plant will be fooled into sprouting new growth and new blooms will form that last well into Fall.  

When my daylilies are done blooming and foliage starts to yellow and brown, I completely revitalize them by tearing out all the old foliage and spent stalks to approximately 4-6 inches above the ground.  Within days new growth will quickly emerge forming a revitalized plant thus extending the bloom season.  For astilbe keep the spent flowers for they supply welcomed Fall interest but remove any browned foliage to give the plant a neater appearance.  Cleaning up the plant may even spark some new flowers to form.  Now it is also time to remove the seed pods and browned stalks from iris and spent flower stalks from hosta and heuchera (coral bells) to redirect the energy back into the roots and foliage.  

At this time I also clean up any hidden weeds and make sure that there is a good layer of mulch (about 2-4 inches) in the garden to keep the roots cool, ensure moisture retention,  add organic matter and of course form a weed barrier during the remaining hot days of summer.  Also plants need approximately one inch of water per week to their roots in order to survive the drought of summer.  It is healthier for the plants to water deep and less often rather than every day at short intervals.  Performing these few simple tasks will revitalize your garden, extend its lifetime and give you several more months of enjoyment out of your landscape!

For more information on garden maintenance you may also enjoy Fall Garden Maintenance: Pruning and Dividing Ornamental Grasses & Perennials


As Always....Happy Gardening!   

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2012. All rights reserved