October Garden Chores - 10 Helpful Tips

October Garden Chores

Autumn has arrived in the northeast and there are several important chores to get accomplished in the garden before winter arrives and to give your landscape a good start for next spring. Here is a to-do list to help get your started.  These tips apply to USDA zone 7 but can be useful for other gardening zones as well.

(1)  Remove those weeds!  There is nothing more annoying than starting up a new gardening season and being inundated with weeds.  Removing weeds now in the fall will rid their seeds so they won’t be able to multiply over the winter season. Dandelions have long tap roots that can be difficult to remove, but I have found the perfect tool! This garden weeder to the left effortlessly removes the entire root.  It also works well with those nasty clover that have been widespread this season. Being proactive now will save time later.

(2)  Plant Spring Bulbs & Wildflowers: Now is the time to plant those spring flowering bulbs and wildflowers!   Some popular bulbs planted in the month of October are Tulips, Daffodils, Crocus, Allium and Hyacinths. Some northeastern wildflowers include Rudbeckia, Coneflower, Cornflower and Poppies.  For self-sowing perennials, biennials and annuals leave the seed heads on existing plants so they can drop to the ground and re-seed for next spring.

(3)  Tree & Shrub Protection: Remove any diseased or dead branches from trees and shrubs to prevent winter damage.  Also remove water sprouts and sucker growth. 

(4) Insect Control: Now is the time to apply dormant oil onto trees and shrubs for winter protection from insects.  Insects such as scale and aphids lay their eggs in September which overwinter causing early infestations in spring.  Dormant oil is prepared to be safe for beneficial insects, birds, mammals and humans and smothers out harmful insect larvae before they hatch. Certain plants are sensitive to dormant oil so be sure to read all specifications carefully.

(5)  Clean Up Garden Beds: Remove infected leaves from perennials and herbaceous shrubs. Faded peony, roses, hosta, daylily and coneflower leaves are very susceptible to fungal infections and powdery mildew.  Once the foliage has died back for the season cut it completely back to the ground and make sure the ground is clean around the plant.  Cover with a fine layer of mulch after clean-up to protect the roots and dispose of the infected leaves into the trash, not the compost pile.

(6)  Prune Perennials:  Prune certain perennials to a couple of inches above the ground once they are done blooming for the season. Perennials that benefit from winter pruning include salvia, coreopsis, sedum, gaillardia, nepeta and daylily.  Liriope is somewhat sensitive to cold and can be pruned half way but not all the way down.  Some perennials are very cold sensitive such as Heuchera (coral bells), astilbe, liatris, lavender, perovskia (russian sage) and lupine are best to be left until early spring.

(7)  Clean up Leaves: At the end of the month remove leaves from the lawn and garden. Leaves left over winter can harbor fungal disease and damage your lawn or perennials.  Either add your leaves to a compost area or shred them.  A fine layer of shredded leaves can add valuable organic matter to your garden and can be used as mulch protection for your plants.

(8) Dig Up Tender Bulbs: Dig up tender bulbs such as gladiolus, canna lily and dahlias that do not survive the winter at the end of the month (before frost) and store them in a cool dry place such as a crawl space or garage in either a paper bag or in a container of vermiculite.

(9) Mulch Garden Beds:  Check and apply mulch to your gardens around perennials and shrubs in areas where the temperatures fall below freezing for long periods of time. The mulch serves as insulation for the plants and provides some important protection during winter freezes and thaws and also helps to prevent moisture loss.

(10) Continue Watering: Continue to water evergreens, trees and shrubs until freeze warnings (end of October-beginning of November). It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health. Evergreens are especially prone to desiccation and winter burn caused by drying winds and lack of moisture during the cold season.

Have you started your fall garden chores?  I hope you find the above October gardening tips to be helpful.

As Always...Happy Gardening!

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening, Copyright 2014. All rights reserved

Fall and Winter Gardening: Some Helpful Tips

As winter approaches there are some basic gardening tips that can be followed to ensure the health and vitality of your landscape plants.  I have discussed each of these separately in past articles and have decided to put them all into one list for easier reference. 

Watering During Fall & Winter: It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants. Once the ground freezes it is difficult for water to percolate down to the roots.  Deciduous trees go dormant but evergreens remain somewhat active and need moisture to the roots.  Water as much as possible before the ground freezes, especially if you have new plantings.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage and drying.

Pruning Ornamental Grasses: Here's a helpful tip for pruning your ornamental grasses such as 'Miscanthus sinensis' Maiden Grass or Dwarf Fountain Grass 'Hameln'. Winter cold can harm the center of grasses causing them to "hollow out". It is best to cut your grasses back in late March to early April in order to protect the roots. If your grasses become a bit unruly by the end of the fall then just cut back the plumes and leave the rest for early spring. Another trick is to wrap a bungee cord about half way up around the center and let the grasses drape over keeping them upright and in place. Ornamental grasses can add much interest to the winter landscape and be enjoyed all winter long. For more information visit: Fall-Garden-Maintenance-Pruning-&-Dividing-Ornamental-Grasses-and-Perennials

Anti-Desiccant Spray:  When the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees it is time to apply an anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese skimmia, leucothoe, aucuba and boxwood. These plants can be subject to severe winter burn due to water loss from the leaves by transpiration. Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.) If there is a prolonged thaw in mid-winter it may be time to re-apply anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens, especially if there are more prolonged freezing temperatures on the way. For more detailed information go to: Winterizing-Evergreens-Anti-Desiccant-Spray

Frost Heaving:  In freezing temperatures soil around your plants may be subject to frost heaving. This is when ice forms underneath the soil and expands upwards from the ground causing plants such as perennials to push upwards exposing the crown. Heuchera (Coral Bells) and Liriope are especially prone to this type of damage. As a preventive measure apply mulch finishing to your garden beds. To remedy, slightly tap the soil back down, and brush the mulch back around the exposed crown of the plant.

Ice Damage to Branches:  As winter progresses there is an increased threat of snow and ice build up on the branches of trees and shrubs in the landscape. If snow piles up on your evergreens try to carefully brush it away removing the excess weight from the branches. If the snow does not remove easily do not shake the branches. This can cause breakage and damage. If the tree or shrub is covered with ice permit nature to take its course and allow the ice to melt naturally. If your landscape does suffer any damage from winter storms it is recommended to remove any broken limbs to avoid stress and disease to the plant. This can be done when the weather allows.

I am hoping that you find these tips to be helpful. Gardening does continue throughout fall and winter and some simple preparation can go a long way especially in areas where winters are harsh.  I for one have found these techniques to be very worthwhile and productive over the years. For further reading you can also visit Winter Gardening:  12 Helpful Tips.
 
                                               As Always...Happy Gardening!


Author:Lee@ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved

Garden Maintenance: General Tree & Shrub Care Information

PRUNING EVERGREENS:
Most evergreens can be pruned at any time of year except during severe heat and drought or within a month before the first frost.   Ideally the best time to prune evergreens is believed to be in March (late winter or early spring) before new growth starts. This also eliminates any winter burn that can occur during especially cold weather and gives the evergreen a good start for Spring.  Your flowering evergreens are an exception to this rule and should not be pruned until after blooming (late spring).  Evergreens such as pine, spruce and fir produce their new yearly growth in shoots called "candles".  In order to encourage more compact growth cut the tips of the candles back half way before the needles unfold.   No plant is completely maintenance free so keep your evergreens trimmed to their desired size. This will also keep them full and healthy and prevent thinning out. NOTE: Evergreens will shed their needles or foliage in the Fall/Spring to allow for new growth. If any branches appear brown or dead after planting or after winter, trim them off and allow the plant to rejuvenate.


Cherry Laurel

WINTER CARE: BROAD LEAVED EVERGREENS:   Some Broad-Leaved Evergreens such as Cherry, Skip or Mountain Laurel, Japanese Aucuba, Leucothoe, Skimmia, Boxwood, Holly and Rhododendron can be subject to winter burn from dehydration due to water loss in the case of a cold and dry winter. Care should be taken in the usage of an anti-desiccant such as ‘Wilt-Pruf” Spray which should be applied two to three times during the winter months throughout periods of cold and thaw.  There is also a new product on the market which lasts for three months with only one application.  Ask your landscape professional for more information.

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES & SHRUBS:   As a general rule prune flowering trees, shrubs and evergreens after the bloom.  Shrubs including Azalea, Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Cherry Laurel, Forsythia, Mockorange, Magnolia and Flowering Crabapple can be pruned in late Spring after bloom.  Flowering shrubs such as hydrangea bloom on the last years growth and will not bloom if cut back in Spring. There are some newer varieties of hydrangea such as the 'Endless Summer' Hydrangea which blooms on new and old wood and 'All Summer Beauty' which blooms on the new season's wood that can be pruned at any time and are a welcome addition to the garden.  Shrubs such as Spirea (except Bridal Wreath) and Barberry 'Royal Burgundy' or 'Rosy Glow' improve bloom and fullness when cut back in late winter-early spring (March) before they get their leaves in Spring. Renovate Lilac in winter and prune for shape after flowering in Spring. Prune roses in Spring to remove winter damage before new growth starts.    Buddlea (Butterfly Bush) should be pruned back in late winter-early spring while dormant for best bloom.

MOVING TREES: Trim (or move) deciduous trees in Fall after leaves have fallen and tree is dormant. Evergreens can be moved in either Spring or Fall and must be keep well watered.

PERENNIALS: Deadhead perennials such as salvia though out summer for continuous repeat blooms. In Fall perennials should be allowed to die back then remove any unwanted foliage. Pruning back perennials can be done in either late Fall or early Spring (March) before new growth appears but it is recommended in the Fall in order to prevent disease. Note: There are some perennials such as liriope (lillyturf) and coral bells (Heuchera) that can provide nice winter interest and benefit from pruning in Spring.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES: Grasses should be cut back in late March before new growth appears. Leaving the grass during the winter provides nice interest to the garden and protects the root system as well.

FERTILIZING: Feed plants in Spring and Late Summer. Do not apply a full dose if feeding in the Fall apply a half dose for root feeding only. For new plantings allow the plantings to become established then apply a slow release organic fertilizer or apply a “starter” formula when planting. For established plants there are several products on the market but be careful not to buy a concentrated product that will burn the roots. A slow release or organic fertilizer such as Holly Tone is recommended.


WATERING:  As a general rule it is best to water less frequently and deep rather than everyday and shallow.  Water needs to get down to the roots of plants so it is recommended that trees, shrubs and perennials are watered every two to three days for approximately 40 minutes per area during Spring and Fall.  In cases of severe heat in summer months watering may be required more frequently.   Lawn areas in shade may require less watering and annuals may require daily watering at less time.  Monitor your plants frequently to adjust their watering accordingly.  It is also important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants before the ground freezes in order to ensure their health.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage.

LAWN CARE: Sod lawns can be planted anytime of year, preferably spring or fall. Avoid planting in extreme conditions of heat or cold and ensure proper irrigation to get your lawn established.  Seed lawns are best planted in the Fall (ideally between August 15 and October 15 here in zone 7) when temperatures are in the 60's and 70's.  Core Aeration and over-seeding are best done in the Fall to help rejuvenate a lawn and give it a healthy start for the following season. Your lawn should also have a regular maintenance program to keep it at its best. Ask your professional. 


INSECT CONTROL: Periodically check your plants for insect or fungal damage and treat if needed. It is advised to use a regular insect control maintenance program to keep your plantings healthy.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010. All Rights Reserved